tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72803409858471722352024-02-19T11:01:07.310-08:00Right Hand of Zodk6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.comBlogger130125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-13747186071559363602022-02-01T05:08:00.004-08:002022-02-01T05:11:00.042-08:00Cam and Dick's Kortge Scratch Built 2N2-40 <p>A couple of years ago, Cam Hartford, N6GA, left us and we still remain saddened at his passing. In the wake of his departure, Dick Palmer, WB6JDH, and I and a couple of other friends of Cam helped to "parse" the ham radio component of his estate. In that effort, Dick came across a remnant of Cam's industry, a partially built Jim Kortge 2N2-40.</p><p>Dick -- ever the industrious breather-of-life-into-things ham that he is -- completed it and got it working. He then thoughtfully gifted me with it for which I am very grateful. This has always been on my bucket list to build one of these and Dick's thoughtfulness has not displaced that project. And it certainly makes life easier that I have a working edition of that radio to guide me. </p><p></p><p>Anyway, here are some pics for your edification.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhTK5e0L2pNZOuhRd3kjv5D9zgE3XAS0TvR8ChWQ0Cf1r6dIn7fqGW3hDkLuqT8LCzCqmXthEuEICUzDUcXXT4Hg22tWmPVtEjh_076vsCf21Ui69OEveVa2HZzxK7k2lw2Ehh3B10x0i8Ol9cu-DoR4reo8_9nF4FTU2uWh6B38wnA36MJGFChAH-0=s4160" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhTK5e0L2pNZOuhRd3kjv5D9zgE3XAS0TvR8ChWQ0Cf1r6dIn7fqGW3hDkLuqT8LCzCqmXthEuEICUzDUcXXT4Hg22tWmPVtEjh_076vsCf21Ui69OEveVa2HZzxK7k2lw2Ehh3B10x0i8Ol9cu-DoR4reo8_9nF4FTU2uWh6B38wnA36MJGFChAH-0=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8ENNtDtBuDh_PNPfQVYsilSr_BBorQZXSRdR36uijtOuvxN1daP2JRleXVwHz3aaq_B3Rj1Cj6EMFPr0W9CpkZLxwqBhoPxFq1Wr8EjkiK6yhZ_AgEoAnHmAwyyHzVufugKn1EAd7_vidhxftMHp4Do2WGMQA3tPxzTKjnEoGbsCGhgP75ZdGTdC7=s4160" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8ENNtDtBuDh_PNPfQVYsilSr_BBorQZXSRdR36uijtOuvxN1daP2JRleXVwHz3aaq_B3Rj1Cj6EMFPr0W9CpkZLxwqBhoPxFq1Wr8EjkiK6yhZ_AgEoAnHmAwyyHzVufugKn1EAd7_vidhxftMHp4Do2WGMQA3tPxzTKjnEoGbsCGhgP75ZdGTdC7=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-R6OIqAVbVLj40zSDo7y055mJS6vJ0tAQvkQyiR-c-lRAhuqLhnp4FSBNnE2iBUpR7O9wwG2aQd4NmTKzjnKzuthI_CWskvRp1gDJ_Ax1XnQmOO08invr1VAev0wMQWCSKqKMeS4C8HFgpLwxvvrEbMKu1D6vmJl77uV8kQLJPjk8TYGmr9yMIHlY=s4160" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-R6OIqAVbVLj40zSDo7y055mJS6vJ0tAQvkQyiR-c-lRAhuqLhnp4FSBNnE2iBUpR7O9wwG2aQd4NmTKzjnKzuthI_CWskvRp1gDJ_Ax1XnQmOO08invr1VAev0wMQWCSKqKMeS4C8HFgpLwxvvrEbMKu1D6vmJl77uV8kQLJPjk8TYGmr9yMIHlY=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi-sRZzIOsrWur0e21v4PSlFH2gsAgZqlYVO5HmxuSC9EjlgAqiBz29ISWUzrsRfp-aULIA5UFlDmxvkm5SSI2UwHd3gq7-sfPgoL35YAbHtuywrU7rO4fX9OBawxHqsU0VxvnsCP8tNdIT8OE_KeC2T0ZsOP7Hgxe-vR7eo8zTC1oC6muSrx60KcFy=s4160" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi-sRZzIOsrWur0e21v4PSlFH2gsAgZqlYVO5HmxuSC9EjlgAqiBz29ISWUzrsRfp-aULIA5UFlDmxvkm5SSI2UwHd3gq7-sfPgoL35YAbHtuywrU7rO4fX9OBawxHqsU0VxvnsCP8tNdIT8OE_KeC2T0ZsOP7Hgxe-vR7eo8zTC1oC6muSrx60KcFy=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfiOI1qYpZ3MlTcpQVa-5JGUAbYFHl9OHFtqgkTWGmx8vf57fPdgbISUD4Y8Gz2PE0jnzqBNw8kHquAGFJT4tlxNwbauCcXzKNs85bWBW40jjIAdz1GXQNYUMwuDm7ebyg-4GvRWjIfU6kThcaV_9KhOr2mAodQ3Rtb_6YFxilGpWgHB2ik08-RMIS=s4160" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfiOI1qYpZ3MlTcpQVa-5JGUAbYFHl9OHFtqgkTWGmx8vf57fPdgbISUD4Y8Gz2PE0jnzqBNw8kHquAGFJT4tlxNwbauCcXzKNs85bWBW40jjIAdz1GXQNYUMwuDm7ebyg-4GvRWjIfU6kThcaV_9KhOr2mAodQ3Rtb_6YFxilGpWgHB2ik08-RMIS=w640-h480" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Enjoy! <br /></div><br /> <br /><p></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-45422759033966231022021-11-28T18:47:00.001-08:002021-11-28T18:48:11.251-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up Part V - So I rewired it!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2huXaxpQah_Iggsoj0LrK5IVtlN8fyUHcs0135ifUydKh43v0djonOBQGqVqJrgU9zG0ccRlgAfHh4Zc-QEerXiFRwuksl1PujYnyGhNbt2zVrxhQBZaIC4CbKGXTKg112Ow5msvCzI/s960/So+I+rewired+it.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="960" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2huXaxpQah_Iggsoj0LrK5IVtlN8fyUHcs0135ifUydKh43v0djonOBQGqVqJrgU9zG0ccRlgAfHh4Zc-QEerXiFRwuksl1PujYnyGhNbt2zVrxhQBZaIC4CbKGXTKg112Ow5msvCzI/w200-h100/So+I+rewired+it.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>After going through considerable testing and reviewing a lot of marvelous advice and help from the Tekscope group, I have come to an interim solution. Like Tim Allen advised: "<i>So, I rewired it!</i>" <p></p><p>Seriously, I was chasing my tail and came to a dead end for the moment. The problem was the overheating relays but I could not find the reason for the overheating except that possibly ALL the relays were defective. (Which I doubt.) If there was some deep-seated problem other than that then I would troubleshoot it another day. Meantime other projects awaited. </p><p></p><p>From the previous posts on this you will note that I discovered that cooling the plugin board allowed it to operate hours on end without faulting on the display. So, succinctly, I was able to locate a source of 12 VDC (from the other existing fan board) and bolted in a three inch muffin fan I had lying around.</p><p>The burn-in testing with all covers and running in a "normal" environment failed to fail, if you will. It ran for eight hours. In fact, I ran BOTH of the frequency counter plugins I had -- the 7D14 and 7D15 -- in the same unit and was counting input signals to beat the band. </p><p>Below are pictures for your (ad my) reference.</p><p>Enjoy.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen2NCh0o27PoGKWfDN67VZmhgAtE7z3VScCzVzQjsURUvIFICOKSmyFB-v-rTX7M9KXqXg_aCKksV27ALjWzkoi4_nEKocz1FpM7sgnt8RElJWr-T1zKDdvvSfxx7uN32k0BJIxEqTUE/s2048/20211125_115112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1977" data-original-width="2048" height="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen2NCh0o27PoGKWfDN67VZmhgAtE7z3VScCzVzQjsURUvIFICOKSmyFB-v-rTX7M9KXqXg_aCKksV27ALjWzkoi4_nEKocz1FpM7sgnt8RElJWr-T1zKDdvvSfxx7uN32k0BJIxEqTUE/w640-h618/20211125_115112.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRe5w8QYdxKp6xuJxt9T66M0bdIWCPlkS62ZP_YxCLbj2PfeCoWouD5TCKKInKhAGnhuQH5JP4yebHr7Eyh_IPbF_RClN5t1KA7dBuochTvLLWow2U7775ZSX_yyRsMzzcCIRNLqCsez0/s2048/20211125_115215.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1542" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRe5w8QYdxKp6xuJxt9T66M0bdIWCPlkS62ZP_YxCLbj2PfeCoWouD5TCKKInKhAGnhuQH5JP4yebHr7Eyh_IPbF_RClN5t1KA7dBuochTvLLWow2U7775ZSX_yyRsMzzcCIRNLqCsez0/w482-h640/20211125_115215.jpg" width="482" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WME0ypPb9olWs0KK_0lO-ZBSsVUst3LETMCsFcKTKt-SmozPVmS8yEvzBuv4lqpqJHlL-8qZ759-yy0_fBAdVZdCBpG6htzjT3o97WMfrKwDOhS-uHlXIef6F3jH3urtF1WlcaAxz10/s2048/20211125_115222.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1398" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WME0ypPb9olWs0KK_0lO-ZBSsVUst3LETMCsFcKTKt-SmozPVmS8yEvzBuv4lqpqJHlL-8qZ759-yy0_fBAdVZdCBpG6htzjT3o97WMfrKwDOhS-uHlXIef6F3jH3urtF1WlcaAxz10/w436-h640/20211125_115222.jpg" width="436" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxNBaPMJnTi9voYrdlPT69XPve2tyM0wJAHldhNJcese9XzWLFiKFHQgaoHot1TtgTZHFde8-2m64Qu3SyX4uKlAbTWWyY_4gSgP3U5Gsveb8RozH9TugEnQoixmVjMpnkLO7sm0wYOU/s2048/20211125_115232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1299" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxNBaPMJnTi9voYrdlPT69XPve2tyM0wJAHldhNJcese9XzWLFiKFHQgaoHot1TtgTZHFde8-2m64Qu3SyX4uKlAbTWWyY_4gSgP3U5Gsveb8RozH9TugEnQoixmVjMpnkLO7sm0wYOU/w406-h640/20211125_115232.jpg" width="406" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8L9W7m2DzxfNVNXruOpp3XQtBF2Vi__bcji_yne0-xZaDPpUK0xd4Guh_HpQ5SxUltrWr0YuG00QYtub8B1NWzAaZ-L9GWQIylK7vyIBUWe0Ht7BQ39yEixRE4llVyyV-DQ6-nDoakk/s2048/20211128_160145.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2002" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8L9W7m2DzxfNVNXruOpp3XQtBF2Vi__bcji_yne0-xZaDPpUK0xd4Guh_HpQ5SxUltrWr0YuG00QYtub8B1NWzAaZ-L9GWQIylK7vyIBUWe0Ht7BQ39yEixRE4llVyyV-DQ6-nDoakk/w626-h640/20211128_160145.jpg" width="626" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7BIk1XGHr19HQBwjUvLRTyKtqk_yM6z0Cwc-MC_8nf5glWsAfRTqw2oMT-1OJuOuWqAhfyeh6yIANzaMbcg7uV0M5hyphenhyphenP6o5QtP0UOAIEGztDfVxVnwx9zezcm750AvSNQCyEGd1JfVg/s2048/20211128_160157.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7BIk1XGHr19HQBwjUvLRTyKtqk_yM6z0Cwc-MC_8nf5glWsAfRTqw2oMT-1OJuOuWqAhfyeh6yIANzaMbcg7uV0M5hyphenhyphenP6o5QtP0UOAIEGztDfVxVnwx9zezcm750AvSNQCyEGd1JfVg/w480-h640/20211128_160157.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p><br /></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-38745738987486612102021-11-22T15:03:00.001-08:002021-11-22T15:17:41.559-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up Part IV - Relay Switching<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMOU_MbW_ZniszFINEpohgrx7P8YOVR_kWqyzquqJf-V3kH3sSC03Z5__9S_xK4CcsBcv2XSOn4gyLFqPHqldS62zLIr0pAR0cIyIrBZXhEM0JioUpyDXkxUMsIrYhQpMuGngPUIPDRk/s2048/20211115_120817_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1381" data-original-width="2048" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMOU_MbW_ZniszFINEpohgrx7P8YOVR_kWqyzquqJf-V3kH3sSC03Z5__9S_xK4CcsBcv2XSOn4gyLFqPHqldS62zLIr0pAR0cIyIrBZXhEM0JioUpyDXkxUMsIrYhQpMuGngPUIPDRk/w640-h432/20211115_120817_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> <br /><p></p><p>To continue where I left off, I <i>still</i> have not arrived at a resolution but have come to a certain stopping point and wanted to write up the results so far and not leave this hanging. Since my last comment, further analysis/testing was done on the relay switching "logic" focusing on the voltages taking the following steps:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiv4Fz1_nFvbQGsF4LgMLDKRXc3btyKvBSn3fBJTsuqpw14zlwrWhJL332eZOq9FlKmqV7AlnC6GPWGWhxI78WkZ3y_aEJEVh-m8uTIu7QHldrtqG1-e8LQUXtgOAZJCxfZCrAZ0vxw2A/s808/7D14+Voltage+Measurements.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="295" data-original-width="808" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiv4Fz1_nFvbQGsF4LgMLDKRXc3btyKvBSn3fBJTsuqpw14zlwrWhJL332eZOq9FlKmqV7AlnC6GPWGWhxI78WkZ3y_aEJEVh-m8uTIu7QHldrtqG1-e8LQUXtgOAZJCxfZCrAZ0vxw2A/w640-h234/7D14+Voltage+Measurements.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p></p><p><br /><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Here are the voltage measurements based on the AC/DC and INPUT SENS switch settings:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn0a_OTifn47bdt7JeEoKZj4A8ApXfnYqxzchOkBXmK6o131lJsVbVGOgQ00dxBrnhcAEv_1PXu2vF5ff01vGPu45gsQlHa-Lmmt806fbKCot7HvRtOB1JPym19nGTqegMkihqqVhiqI/s782/7D14+Voltage+Readings.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="204" data-original-width="782" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn0a_OTifn47bdt7JeEoKZj4A8ApXfnYqxzchOkBXmK6o131lJsVbVGOgQ00dxBrnhcAEv_1PXu2vF5ff01vGPu45gsQlHa-Lmmt806fbKCot7HvRtOB1JPym19nGTqegMkihqqVhiqI/w640-h166/7D14+Voltage+Readings.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p> And, for reference, here is the pin-out for the SPDT and DPDT relays:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcPNUg3wsbBf8vkACvcQ6C3xvJs3OtM3YUxlA4-8kAMXwGCQ24tu4aAzyToWfOYJmXMDeRlP4nqVtKv4oCYNwx7ao9DFjo2L2mDJbsv8zk_e4zYrVYKQQ9VGYoWLEc5Cbm5bMLA5ztwI/s656/7D14+Relay+Power+Pins.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="321" data-original-width="656" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcPNUg3wsbBf8vkACvcQ6C3xvJs3OtM3YUxlA4-8kAMXwGCQ24tu4aAzyToWfOYJmXMDeRlP4nqVtKv4oCYNwx7ao9DFjo2L2mDJbsv8zk_e4zYrVYKQQ9VGYoWLEc5Cbm5bMLA5ztwI/w400-h196/7D14+Relay+Power+Pins.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p><i>At this point I cannot explain why the relays ALL are hot to the touch.</i> A friend tells me that his 7D14s' relays do not get hot at all. Since these relays are not commonly available, the only option is to score some from a parts unit and substitute them to see what happens.<br /><br />I will probably be evaluating the switching with respect to the signal path. That is, speculating where the signals should be present depending upon the INPUT SENS switch selection, etc.<br /><br /><i>Stay tuned.</i><br /></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-54461771824558528792021-11-14T19:21:00.006-08:002021-11-14T19:25:22.673-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up Part III - The Heat is On!<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibac3FkbfxZ22HQ50p3SpTdzQZ17_2JzZVMr-UuZKVaUKjn6w_miJ5amKFN_1kECGaO3MyoBVRcItk4G-fjOLAWROlgLTyoCQgGJn6gsmcuI1UAvaxBHR433mejsxUNG5mafhR71hLcws/s712/7D14+-+start+of+heat+test.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="712" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibac3FkbfxZ22HQ50p3SpTdzQZ17_2JzZVMr-UuZKVaUKjn6w_miJ5amKFN_1kECGaO3MyoBVRcItk4G-fjOLAWROlgLTyoCQgGJn6gsmcuI1UAvaxBHR433mejsxUNG5mafhR71hLcws/s320/7D14+-+start+of+heat+test.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>I got a little closer to understanding the problem today. But first a brief explanation of how I have been testing this plug-in. This is an explanation I provided one of the respondents to my thread re the circuit behavior. Of course, a more complete description if available in the 7D14 service manual. SO, here goes:<br /><br />The 7D14 has two inputs: the TRIGGER SOURCE, which is introduced to the counter from pins 20A/20B of the plug-in connector. The other input is the "CH A INPUT" BNC on the front panel of the counter. The counter selects these by means of the "INPUT SENS" [sic] switch on the front panel. It has six positions: 50Ω 1V and 100mV, "TRIG SOURCE", 1MΩ 100 mV, 1V, 10V going clockwise on the face. <br /><br />The 50Ω and 1MΩ positions activate/deactivate various relays to run the signal through resistor pads and to achieve the designated attenuation (with capacitors to compensate for high frequency signals). The signal ultimately is introduced to a push-pull "Input Amplifier", is processed, and ultimately is passed on to the counter logic circuit. The boundaries if this amplifier are a pair of matched FETs (DUAL FET package) of Q130A/Q130B and -- for our purposes -- Q147 and Q247. <br /><br />When the "TRIG SOURCE" position is selected, the signal from the 20A/20B connector pins is routed through an energized "Trigger Source Amplifier" comprised of Q216 and Q218 whose output is sent to the Q130A/Q130B FETs of the push-pull amp described above. <br /><br />Thus, I chose to measure the signal at the base of Q216 -- the input to the Q216/Q218 amplifier -- as one point and the aforesaid Q147 -or- Q247 bases as the other point.<br /><br />I ran the test until the counter failed (displayed zeroes) and noted that the bases of Q147 and Q247 lost the signal that appeared there when the test started. The signal at the gate of Q130B was still extant. So I moved the second point "inward" and did a rinse and repeat. <br /><br />This was done until the second point was the gate of Q130B where I noticed the signal disappear. To make a long story short, I then went through the "Input Amplifier" to determine that it was working. <br /><br />So here we are. I am convinced the push-pull amplifier is working and I am convinced the "TRIG SOURCE" "Input Amplifier" is working The only question I had was the one I posed in one of my comments above about the overheating relays. <br /><br />Per a recommendation, I swapped the relays as described but saw no difference. Also, I remain concerned because the other relays were hot tot the touch as well which does not comport with my friend's experience. <br /><br />Based on the above, I kicked the can a little further down the road here on 7D14 here. Today I embarked on a little experiment. Still puzzling about the relay heating question, I set up the unit to test in the cool of the morning. (We have been having a three-day desert Santa Ana wind condition and the bench area was a little warmish. It was cooler today.)<br /><br />I propped a fan up to the side of the unit and fired it up. Succinctly, it ran for six hours rock-solid, dead on perfect without any problems. Moreover, the three relays on the front of the board that had heated up in the past were merely warm. Interesting to note, however, the two relays at the back of the board -- K125 and K252 - were hot.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiljW5mMeqqKkHSFblllUi9jCjcyIw0TS3SIj425afkApTbzc_TXCnSRc3ebEP8KYr_Ifrxfdbl3iflbOnSEwMtlBz1aEGK-SI4DAVe0aVdIiYeIBZyy4LpAynh3YWQWw2V2MiT7z63iY/s708/7D14+-+external+fan.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="708" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiljW5mMeqqKkHSFblllUi9jCjcyIw0TS3SIj425afkApTbzc_TXCnSRc3ebEP8KYr_Ifrxfdbl3iflbOnSEwMtlBz1aEGK-SI4DAVe0aVdIiYeIBZyy4LpAynh3YWQWw2V2MiT7z63iY/w640-h536/7D14+-+external+fan.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49b0LWO8RW0rEBybu0NvnyPzO_EUnzbnwL4S2HFTbZdiyO9J8OikhwqTYWnz81fA1Gvo1x4LObNEO4Uj0oYVKrfEp3r7-IbrDSzv_hJDpTyzo_EJ0sS76IK6TrHVqKwUorjhAaA-vAeU/s868/7D14+-+end+of+test+reading.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="729" data-original-width="868" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49b0LWO8RW0rEBybu0NvnyPzO_EUnzbnwL4S2HFTbZdiyO9J8OikhwqTYWnz81fA1Gvo1x4LObNEO4Uj0oYVKrfEp3r7-IbrDSzv_hJDpTyzo_EJ0sS76IK6TrHVqKwUorjhAaA-vAeU/w640-h538/7D14+-+end+of+test+reading.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />So I am forced to conclude that something is causing those relays -- the SPDT ones, at least -- to head up. I mostly understand the circuit (as I explained to Harvey) but do not know why the relays are heating. I do know there now is a correlation between the plug-in failure and the excessive heat.<br /><br />..and all this with a Rigol DS1102E sitting on the bench to boot!<p></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-46779629340320383012021-11-12T11:17:00.002-08:002021-11-12T11:18:26.520-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up Part II<p> So far, despite a visit and some serious time with my good friend, Dick, WB6JDH, we were unable to unravel the mystery of the fading 7D14. We covered a lot of ground but have not yet unlocked the puzzle. <br /><br />Dick discovered some ambiguity between my unit and the manual documentation and found that the Q218 (151-0271-00, the PNP transistor) was actually in BACKWARDS. Reversing it caused more correct signals to be observed for a longer time. We also discovered ambiguity in the manual documentation between the pin-outs Q130A/Q130B (151-1031-00, the DUAL FET in the TO-71 case) and the diagram in the book. (Will be detailed in subsequent "Chinese Checkers" post.) This led us on a course of substitution -- Q218 was replaced with a 2N3906 and the dual FET was replaced with two J310 FETs. These seemed to work great for an hour of two and then behaved as described and then behaved as I discussed below.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jJ3sbVZLGaEgf70ipxf7AwICoAFSuZ08X5lTItwuGKqetdbwaJsCuuYdbEuB0LuRNDdtecMcDrDojaytZP-KK76h7smbFqJu2ZZ766R_KAq5-aTUoSU0l_15ihSvbrnQhclOmYHfEAM/s755/detail+pic+of+replaced+transistors.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="755" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jJ3sbVZLGaEgf70ipxf7AwICoAFSuZ08X5lTItwuGKqetdbwaJsCuuYdbEuB0LuRNDdtecMcDrDojaytZP-KK76h7smbFqJu2ZZ766R_KAq5-aTUoSU0l_15ihSvbrnQhclOmYHfEAM/w640-h586/detail+pic+of+replaced+transistors.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><br />I piddled around a little after Dick left and managed to be present when the TRIGGER SOURCE signal crapped out. I quickly switched the signal to the CHANNEL "A" input BNC and saw that the counter continued to work properly when the INPUT SENSE switch was switched from TRIGGER SOURCE to one of the attenuator positions (as we discussed). I then rigged a "T" connection of the generator signal to the 7A26 CHANNEL 1 input BNC and the CHANNEL "A" BNC such that when the signal died from the TRIGGER SOURCE position, I could quickly switch over to the CHANNEL "A" input. <br /><br /></p><p></p><p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSaT3bzYeNEad1OdXKymXXtDRzZklqSUTyftgxSyuvZAR1NSCp6EathtTU67htKIOuXaN0ybsFDQucn8b5wuB66JkBgROal95rhUQc21e5JSEEEW8vjF7h9gipIfSoHzq2vD4blQedCU/s2048/20211111_190543.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1810" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSaT3bzYeNEad1OdXKymXXtDRzZklqSUTyftgxSyuvZAR1NSCp6EathtTU67htKIOuXaN0ybsFDQucn8b5wuB66JkBgROal95rhUQc21e5JSEEEW8vjF7h9gipIfSoHzq2vD4blQedCU/w566-h640/20211111_190543.jpg" width="566" /></a><br /><br />As time permitted yesterday (tiptoeing around normal duties), I experimented with this setup of switching quickly back and forth between the TRIGGER SOURCE and the CHANNEL "A" inputs. I noted that the counter did not fail in a similar manner as it had in the past. Whereas the display would "fade to zero" in a matter of seconds, now it just grew inaccurate, displaying "20.0xxx" where the "xxx" digits would remain unsteady. When it was switched to the CHANNEL "A" input, the display would revert to a rock solid "20.000" MHz. <br /><br />I turned my attention to the relays and found that the K106, K101, and K100 units were very hot to the touch but K103 was not.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNsKiN22ao6LdyTZnqP9xXTyDdUI2Bns8xM2nE3ywTOw1UwvdJs6FX8aLl-4XnMoHmVRLz18qfRGZkKvRU42TWtRi073C3H7ttcBm7wL5ofhaDzUHYZwtKRXzcN5XqDJBKfDzKkz_nGo/s756/enlarged+shot+of+relays.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="756" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNsKiN22ao6LdyTZnqP9xXTyDdUI2Bns8xM2nE3ywTOw1UwvdJs6FX8aLl-4XnMoHmVRLz18qfRGZkKvRU42TWtRi073C3H7ttcBm7wL5ofhaDzUHYZwtKRXzcN5XqDJBKfDzKkz_nGo/w640-h410/enlarged+shot+of+relays.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLflxGtn_h6ccuM_ofBu0lDW4J-x62TuqR-oaiKekkIwy8DcsCgc9fngAWMvEVg38vXIkVexEwAQhF7JOAmaUeI3jJjbWNdfMmvB4bVMiBO13qB3zHT4T8kwUiiX4hNC1KQshlyZpb04/s475/live+shot+of+relays.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="475" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLflxGtn_h6ccuM_ofBu0lDW4J-x62TuqR-oaiKekkIwy8DcsCgc9fngAWMvEVg38vXIkVexEwAQhF7JOAmaUeI3jJjbWNdfMmvB4bVMiBO13qB3zHT4T8kwUiiX4hNC1KQshlyZpb04/w640-h484/live+shot+of+relays.png" width="640" /></a></div><br />This morning, I set up a test of the unit again and, while it lasted a full three hours plus, it again failed. This time BOTH the TRIGGER SOURCE and the CHANNEL "A" input displayed zeroes. <br /><br />The 7D14 manual describes this circuit nicely but I am still puzzled if sticking/malfunctioning relays could cause the problem I am having with this plug in. k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-49403369990378422122021-11-07T19:29:00.006-08:002021-11-07T19:30:35.294-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up Part I<p><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">In starting out on this, I compiled some notes on the 7D14 and its misadventures. I believe
the problem is in the "front end" where the signal is processed
from either the "A" channel BNC or the "B" channel internal routing
from a vertical amp. The 7D14 service manual bears reading -- particularly the circuit operation description. Here are some preliminary testing observations:<br />
<br />
(1) The symptoms are that the counter will display the frequency
accurately for a while -- about 20 minutes to one hour -- and the
display will wilt to zero.<br />
<br />
(2) For a while, I was able to input the signal (60 MHz - same as
input to the 7A26) to the "A" channel BNC but and thought I had
"isolated" the problem. But not so much anymore.<br />
<br />
(3) I chose to start at R222 as it is the input to the input
amplifier stage -- Q130A/Q130B, the curious dual N-channel FET --
to determine if where the signal was getting dumped. Starting up
the cold 'scope, I saw the signal there at approx. .091 Vpp and
even after the 7D14 stopped displaying the frequency, i.e.
displayed zeroes, the signal was still there albeit somewhat
diminished at .041 pp.<br />
<br />
(4) The subsequent point immediately after -- Q132/Q232 base,
Q141/Q241 base, and Q136/Q236 base -- all showed no or erratic
signal.<br />
<br />
The voltage measurements below are the signal measurements from the scope -- though they
are little more than the numbers behind #4 above. I appended the voltage measurement pictures. <br />
<br /> One more thing I gotta tell you is that I am no fan of the Rigol DS 1102E scope I recently got. I am absolutely unable to operate the thing! The trace is fuzzy and erratic but it's probably me but it still makes me no fan of digital scopes -- so far!
<br /><br /> <b><u>SCOPE TEST MEASUREMENTS
</u></b><br /> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">MEASURE 7D14 7D14<br />
<u>POINT</u> <u>RUNNING GOOD</u> <u>CRAPPED OUT</u><br />
R222 .092 Vpp .042 Vpp<br />
<br />
Q132 base .048 Vpp NONE<br />
Q232 base .048 Vpp .027 Vpp<br />
<br />
Q141 base .310 Vpp NONE<br />
Q241 base .260 Vpp NONE<br />
<br />
Q136 collector .300 Vpp NONE<br />
Q241 collector .230 Vpp NONE</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">
</span>
</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUsKsBZjVmfObaZLANv0oOBWo9TV7DBdicSdajuSE6lqZN70FL8wSMhXqOL7-AHlaL5pI5Up3oOvhHwYJDiuMB_i5GF-hC9x-DsVgAyhxKpIvcmtXoLXyzkThKj1HefrBH2-uIvUv4cc/s978/Q130+pic+with+voltages.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="978" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUsKsBZjVmfObaZLANv0oOBWo9TV7DBdicSdajuSE6lqZN70FL8wSMhXqOL7-AHlaL5pI5Up3oOvhHwYJDiuMB_i5GF-hC9x-DsVgAyhxKpIvcmtXoLXyzkThKj1HefrBH2-uIvUv4cc/w640-h464/Q130+pic+with+voltages.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfVFn-7gJHtUaVzMPfg-2LMrv2UAhYllzrIEZZ5VOYPOI0HmnBfhzDjPvNxAvygAno9aD_5E9ttzeEnQekyXVfCX1YJSznugiYDNeyD54963M_5GiQ1AnanlBicafZDgyU8YIdc9fyXs/s963/Q132%252BQ232+pic+with+coltages.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="963" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfVFn-7gJHtUaVzMPfg-2LMrv2UAhYllzrIEZZ5VOYPOI0HmnBfhzDjPvNxAvygAno9aD_5E9ttzeEnQekyXVfCX1YJSznugiYDNeyD54963M_5GiQ1AnanlBicafZDgyU8YIdc9fyXs/w640-h472/Q132%252BQ232+pic+with+coltages.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace;">
</span>
<p></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-43414465160019619362021-11-04T09:03:00.004-07:002021-11-07T19:31:47.536-08:00Tektronix 7D14 Fix-Up<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6tf9CAckS3nvtS7vnQC7IWkKAlEoUoheGVm5-55aiiVx2Uwv8sWQA7jCvPfB1GXaXKnE2QCYSwQ4uGcnW-Xzk0rzyfnoDYUSH2DeeL0woc1hTE0Vd108CR-26jVQj3zIVLY48AQPRWL0/s2048/20211104_075003.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1162" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6tf9CAckS3nvtS7vnQC7IWkKAlEoUoheGVm5-55aiiVx2Uwv8sWQA7jCvPfB1GXaXKnE2QCYSwQ4uGcnW-Xzk0rzyfnoDYUSH2DeeL0woc1hTE0Vd108CR-26jVQj3zIVLY48AQPRWL0/w228-h400/20211104_075003.jpg" width="228" /></a></div><p></p><p>After having repaired my 7D15 freq counter plug-in (a questionable cap, bad solder joint, and some pilot error), I am turning my attention to a 7D14 that is flaky. Below are the facts.</p><p>(1) Problem is that the 7D14 stops displaying the
frequency correctly -- i.e., displays all zeroes - when the signal is sourced from a
vertical amp. I have tested with a signal input from the unit's front
panel BNC and it does seem to not fail. <br /><br />(2) The problem seems heat related. <br />(3) The set up is as follows:<br /> <span> </span>(a) Scope is 7704A.<br /><span> </span> (b) 7A26 in left vertical slot.<br /> <span> </span>(c) 7B92A in horizontal slot A.<br /> <span> </span>(d) 7D14 in in horizontal slot B.<br /><span> </span> (e) Vertical mode LEFT.<br /><span> </span> (f) Horizontal mode A.<br /> (4) Other settings per 7D14 manual troubleshooting/calibration set up.<br />(5) Signal input to Channel 1 on 7A26 and adjusted to AC, set to display and trigger on channel 1., <br />(6) 7D14 set 10 ms, Trigger Preset, 525 MHz, AC, TRIG SOURCE, and frequency is displayed correctly on CRT. <br />(7) After about 1-2 hours, the frequency display becomes erratic and then displays all zeroes. <br />(8)
Removing the side panels on the scope and the plug-in and blowing it
with cold air causes the frequency to be displayed properly. <br />(9)
Leaving the plug-in exposed (no side panels) causes it to run
indeterminately longer without failing. (That is, I have let it run
several hours without failure.)<br />(10) Similarly, I have set it up
to read a signal input from the CH A INPUT BNC in the 7D14 front panel
and -- even when covered with the side panels -- it seems to run a long
time and not fail. (Similarly, I have let it run several hours without
failure.)<br /><br />In looking at the manual and reading the schematic and
notes, I am guessing that the vertical input from the 7A26 arrives on
pins 20A (+TRIG IN TO T870) and 20B (-TRIG IN TO T870) and, accordingly,
I have begun to snoop through schematic <1> CHANNEL A SIGNAL
CONDITIONING but sense that I may be a little off. I thought I'd document my fix here if I am successful. </p><p></p><p>Below are some pictures of the two PCBs in the unit <i>in no special order.</i> If you click on them they will enlarge for a more detailed view. Subsequent posts will track my progress and I'll also mark up the photos below -- if needed -- to highlight areas of importance involved in my problem resolution. <br /></p><p><u>High Frequency Board</u></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdibqBNisEFGrWe4wfUUMHO4OCLQ7EuaIuakGU12nN4_cOcxuKqn-DX80JmwC9LUuk_zVqVDv8cpMjWXM6R8Ub67qPbpzKK__nHQ1lSV7gYANs2MpsZOjYtz5vzVWrCovn_-YRGvVPdps/s2048/20211104_072600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdibqBNisEFGrWe4wfUUMHO4OCLQ7EuaIuakGU12nN4_cOcxuKqn-DX80JmwC9LUuk_zVqVDv8cpMjWXM6R8Ub67qPbpzKK__nHQ1lSV7gYANs2MpsZOjYtz5vzVWrCovn_-YRGvVPdps/w640-h480/20211104_072600.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><u></u></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGg8hf9r9eJB-asM8ahNLws3QAfwg7g_q6RGqHSXuumybqJ2a5WlH_nVFK9GBsgzfBiqb9AvcyV7j_zwhk8hmwlMGdsuXbflB4Zo8DzFDJpgbNlvlbTNnkue_FAMkK0jmmy9S5sW0JxEo/s2048/20211104_074833_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1308" data-original-width="2048" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGg8hf9r9eJB-asM8ahNLws3QAfwg7g_q6RGqHSXuumybqJ2a5WlH_nVFK9GBsgzfBiqb9AvcyV7j_zwhk8hmwlMGdsuXbflB4Zo8DzFDJpgbNlvlbTNnkue_FAMkK0jmmy9S5sW0JxEo/w640-h408/20211104_074833_HDR.jpg" width="640" /> </a></u></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRrpCBDkPSutNnNU_daTLbiQzEUJkxtuEy9fCOyAHanVRwdH19wfnkvN3xIxXywUZJQSGyicIREnzzYZhgR_hAZ0Xl21J9mFWs_7UxIw1lKgP8KxSfOsdRXbSIy9Ks4Dtb9jpvqVnNuzQ/s2048/20211104_072605_Burst01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRrpCBDkPSutNnNU_daTLbiQzEUJkxtuEy9fCOyAHanVRwdH19wfnkvN3xIxXywUZJQSGyicIREnzzYZhgR_hAZ0Xl21J9mFWs_7UxIw1lKgP8KxSfOsdRXbSIy9Ks4Dtb9jpvqVnNuzQ/w640-h480/20211104_072605_Burst01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDAPdH1y6BTvfa9SDacnCYmuCxISvSLndatcRmfMJaSnXvI4JnqPKS0E4IqltFbWXs9hhboitt1L4c84OGRN4_QUVgwXkCDYyB2PXM5l11nOkC5jr0JEEhhLyWvNkugS8W77EAOJVU98E/w640-h480/20211104_072717_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CBOTTbXvglHLupxZ-uE0D96fEnQHUHBwKKljjxPaU_CzI4FnEgiHp1XRx3VS2GOXxuwHesG03XJNwMODcEkWt4XcisftQ5EcUxUhRjm0vkbFl_vJHeDJT3AUmYrdPi5Ns0TjCr43IT8/s2048/20211104_072722_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CBOTTbXvglHLupxZ-uE0D96fEnQHUHBwKKljjxPaU_CzI4FnEgiHp1XRx3VS2GOXxuwHesG03XJNwMODcEkWt4XcisftQ5EcUxUhRjm0vkbFl_vJHeDJT3AUmYrdPi5Ns0TjCr43IT8/w640-h480/20211104_072722_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><p><u>Logic Board</u></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJmf2ARkr8X43QV-IqSDzMdnHsIbb0wZDBWqTuTsHLDOEUR_WaHn_ExQUSJB0nE7Fvyqw7uHYotkUkxAR-zcUDCtZ03wU5rUtnVqiYggBEy6LliI2ly8J07L4CzWaHgzbnc0yz2hUowk/s2048/20211104_073911_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJmf2ARkr8X43QV-IqSDzMdnHsIbb0wZDBWqTuTsHLDOEUR_WaHn_ExQUSJB0nE7Fvyqw7uHYotkUkxAR-zcUDCtZ03wU5rUtnVqiYggBEy6LliI2ly8J07L4CzWaHgzbnc0yz2hUowk/w640-h480/20211104_073911_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYbWmPmbTXtunMqWfQPnfaaWsDDqsl2TupQy6PauI85gSCBQSccKl32odJOV1I7npNYevWEZqaxN7_Rkk4B37cERUcVJTk98yO5tjSMp3D3InvR9DvWg32d0rt4cWsDDe0jR3Efg56Jc/s2048/20211104_073917_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYbWmPmbTXtunMqWfQPnfaaWsDDqsl2TupQy6PauI85gSCBQSccKl32odJOV1I7npNYevWEZqaxN7_Rkk4B37cERUcVJTk98yO5tjSMp3D3InvR9DvWg32d0rt4cWsDDe0jR3Efg56Jc/w640-h480/20211104_073917_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_GGWNBKq4De1URBHSQ0-fC-nRKp4gXGwRXPBnMM2YxCechZPSnd07odODZuxbHU4OWvvTM8iopRrq7ZSH-FKFOoZAGQkMgh-x-uZLaQp2GofjTVrfjHN1l2fnFPdsIpmq0-wSDF0tFs/s2048/20211104_073938_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_GGWNBKq4De1URBHSQ0-fC-nRKp4gXGwRXPBnMM2YxCechZPSnd07odODZuxbHU4OWvvTM8iopRrq7ZSH-FKFOoZAGQkMgh-x-uZLaQp2GofjTVrfjHN1l2fnFPdsIpmq0-wSDF0tFs/w640-h480/20211104_073938_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLVvLUU8671FFZbN89Ad0g4a9Ty8J3fHGLYgK7xYpcN2Zd65MaC7WQK2aV_y7A5lDMzcZNPApFVLa5l3LCsYm3MvY1i8RRkBu96_4pz42h5dvNeydxEkSZjO_FIpFeNVMYc8Wnk6ames/s2048/20211104_073941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLVvLUU8671FFZbN89Ad0g4a9Ty8J3fHGLYgK7xYpcN2Zd65MaC7WQK2aV_y7A5lDMzcZNPApFVLa5l3LCsYm3MvY1i8RRkBu96_4pz42h5dvNeydxEkSZjO_FIpFeNVMYc8Wnk6ames/w640-h480/20211104_073941.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-36740417375701463942021-10-06T08:59:00.001-07:002021-10-06T09:00:47.844-07:00SPARE TO MY NEEDS: HEATHKIT IG-18 SINE & SQUARE WAVE GENERATOR<p> Rescued this from a swap meet and restored as shown. It has the "Greening" meter circuit installed. Asking $60 firm plus shipping.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEW4CRKLJqAbJyhturEun1SY4m4sV6yHfrvUPDnKgVwAi4H240bJp-QwyTRpsYHivaNwfhThatXYVmVA5aGJt9tP4J8cYLgHb4LTrMlJtDpfdhKVXAAUfQQlS2hYc13fmpKRH1ld5yAY/s2048/20210815_094014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="2048" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEW4CRKLJqAbJyhturEun1SY4m4sV6yHfrvUPDnKgVwAi4H240bJp-QwyTRpsYHivaNwfhThatXYVmVA5aGJt9tP4J8cYLgHb4LTrMlJtDpfdhKVXAAUfQQlS2hYc13fmpKRH1ld5yAY/w640-h338/20210815_094014.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_38I5Euk7d1Vj0mtEPnDCK0kPlk5avD_m7p8Uxsp41CPLDK_BV6eIG7vSP1XIByPGRfGpv8kJewN_oVMhk0d944OzOfLWetxrBbsKDRpuJaJKqxCqourH1Tl_GowayzgtQJ_BRNAb4c/s2904/20210815_093345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1083" data-original-width="2904" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_38I5Euk7d1Vj0mtEPnDCK0kPlk5avD_m7p8Uxsp41CPLDK_BV6eIG7vSP1XIByPGRfGpv8kJewN_oVMhk0d944OzOfLWetxrBbsKDRpuJaJKqxCqourH1Tl_GowayzgtQJ_BRNAb4c/w640-h238/20210815_093345.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Tq6bu0HZgL_RpINdb45nG8M646WPeFIk98fG_t-9vg2Z9ebCATPC0m0x8WIxtb6Awu51t81L4yd4bes3JpLi18m8CmZMiY9eBdUZ7FQrsSzm_C8Qv_FOgHi4YRConJrKGgcbJNYY3gY/s2048/20210815_093436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1589" data-original-width="2048" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Tq6bu0HZgL_RpINdb45nG8M646WPeFIk98fG_t-9vg2Z9ebCATPC0m0x8WIxtb6Awu51t81L4yd4bes3JpLi18m8CmZMiY9eBdUZ7FQrsSzm_C8Qv_FOgHi4YRConJrKGgcbJNYY3gY/w640-h496/20210815_093436.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHv4RF2J6afZvnaYTvWm1JoSz1KaInAhSCL7RSVa_VBtYbdHne0ieXHTG7KfTJi2rr0tHUEhzJA_xyGEfCPy5qzPyPL4-cTzu4ZuUMSYT5_sxFo3qxWxPNrjhyphenhyphena7ToypcWvY_6yoyl7mM/s2048/20210815_094042.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1204" data-original-width="2048" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHv4RF2J6afZvnaYTvWm1JoSz1KaInAhSCL7RSVa_VBtYbdHne0ieXHTG7KfTJi2rr0tHUEhzJA_xyGEfCPy5qzPyPL4-cTzu4ZuUMSYT5_sxFo3qxWxPNrjhyphenhyphena7ToypcWvY_6yoyl7mM/w640-h376/20210815_094042.jpg" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RLwfHbT4RhyphenhyphendpNVoXaXjk9V_U71N3iK37KhnnjyfRgohuVq79zDqULcT6en3jl8SJYOvEbGQoBJLvuBVReO3ucjgVM8BOzQTJDP2tbgp1NDMdTpd3D9mYHxMmx6RQnUtWemgVJUPnSg/s2048/20210815_094216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1312" data-original-width="2048" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RLwfHbT4RhyphenhyphendpNVoXaXjk9V_U71N3iK37KhnnjyfRgohuVq79zDqULcT6en3jl8SJYOvEbGQoBJLvuBVReO3ucjgVM8BOzQTJDP2tbgp1NDMdTpd3D9mYHxMmx6RQnUtWemgVJUPnSg/w640-h410/20210815_094216.jpg" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyrMVqEE29Ci_xV8_5FQk_lxW421veaTGXtEy181i28U1nYpN4ka9ZqIcnYbFQ9aw_5DnuN9t8gHmVlU5xS0m5JS6Jh44GMDVVO6GCM9KaQI3nIDZfnGQE5U2CcomtVSIITcuzWh95zA/s2048/20210815_094239.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1410" data-original-width="2048" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyrMVqEE29Ci_xV8_5FQk_lxW421veaTGXtEy181i28U1nYpN4ka9ZqIcnYbFQ9aw_5DnuN9t8gHmVlU5xS0m5JS6Jh44GMDVVO6GCM9KaQI3nIDZfnGQE5U2CcomtVSIITcuzWh95zA/w640-h440/20210815_094239.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div></div><p></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-84282237429312904042021-09-28T10:17:00.002-07:002021-09-28T10:17:22.836-07:00Tek 7A26 Problems<p> Not to pile on re 7A26es, but I have one that is misbehaving and wanted some help finding the starting point to the debugging process. The problems are as follows:<br /><br />(1) The top channel "IDENTIFY" button does not work. I've been through the manual and schematics -- admittedly, not thoroughly -- and am unable to find the "secret workings" of that device. I pick up the push button at the CH 1 AMP schematic where is says "probe identify from R13" but cannot seem to locate R13. et seq.<br /><br />Also, if anyone knows the theory of how this works, I would be much obliged. <br /><br />(2) The top channel (except for the "IDENTIFY" problem) works fine. The bottom channel does not. Plain and simple the display is faulty. The two channels are shown below for comparison and taken from the 4V 7044A frame square wave standard. Both are measured with a stock Tek P6131 probe. Any thoughts on this would be welcome.<br /><br />Thanks in advance.</p><p></p><p>Pictures:</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUdQGoSsqWjGNmHYlWdp2gH4odz30m-A65YB0dEwJnvI48uCoaLxpF7wSfkRt2_vEGXSL40lROECeNCtY80zZEjb05Ss02dsxzD-uzh50jgfwHmUvFJpmtxOu6RMWqTlzqND80Bi5YI8/s619/Teh+7A26+top+input.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="619" height="405" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUdQGoSsqWjGNmHYlWdp2gH4odz30m-A65YB0dEwJnvI48uCoaLxpF7wSfkRt2_vEGXSL40lROECeNCtY80zZEjb05Ss02dsxzD-uzh50jgfwHmUvFJpmtxOu6RMWqTlzqND80Bi5YI8/w473-h405/Teh+7A26+top+input.jpg" width="473" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Channel 1 (Top) Good<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpc3we6pDZS8LsRP1k0vCsYqCX1eEWfZhOTq1dwMJnrqXViD5M2hG4MzZtZHyh-On1osl1wzG2TitSVqXbn1uziEi7eAj7fzAVAmIgR5W9QIHe7_hP5hbFEBG0KJnU0kZhty2tiuddF9Q/s698/Teh+7A26+bottom+input.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="698" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpc3we6pDZS8LsRP1k0vCsYqCX1eEWfZhOTq1dwMJnrqXViD5M2hG4MzZtZHyh-On1osl1wzG2TitSVqXbn1uziEi7eAj7fzAVAmIgR5W9QIHe7_hP5hbFEBG0KJnU0kZhty2tiuddF9Q/w462-h422/Teh+7A26+bottom+input.jpg" width="462" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Channel 2 (Bottom) Bad</td></tr></tbody></table></p>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-83139721064151432362021-07-01T09:19:00.001-07:002022-07-22T18:40:32.468-07:00Zuni Loop MEF FD 2021
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<p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7b3zahyVBBCMRxODmnr_yIQM7LI0igIFo7VJdBod9tn2KePBFSoCFWBMFYm0JID0bPADamqA_loZLc89-wTxZKuTlGw-CjcJJuKTJ732DBfvzwhbbpVe2-ZmUCWLqHaTt6sX6JpNB0Y/s565/Zuni+Loop+MEF+Logo+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="565" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7b3zahyVBBCMRxODmnr_yIQM7LI0igIFo7VJdBod9tn2KePBFSoCFWBMFYm0JID0bPADamqA_loZLc89-wTxZKuTlGw-CjcJJuKTJ732DBfvzwhbbpVe2-ZmUCWLqHaTt6sX6JpNB0Y/w640-h412/Zuni+Loop+MEF+Logo+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></p>
<p>Amateur Radio Operators Complete Field Day 2021 Emergency
Exercise In Wake of COVID-19 Wrightwood, California – June
27th, 2021 – The last full weekend in June is a big one for
tens of thousands of amateur radio operators all over North
America. It is the Amateur Radio Relay League (ARRL) Field Day
weekend, a combination emergency-preparedness exercise, public
relations event, and club get-together. Clubs and individuals
tune up their power generators and charge their batteries and get
on the air to make radio contacts with other participants.
It’s normally a pretty big deal for the Zuni Loop Mountain
Expeditionary Force (Zuni Loop MEF) -- an amateur radio club
comprised of members from all over Southern California. This
exercise for the Zuni Loop Group marks the 37th year that they
have met at the Table Mountain Campground above Wrightwood,
California. These intrepid "hams" seek to exploit radio
technology and augment their emergency communications skills as a
service to the public. In an ordinary year, the activity involves
the participation of 20 amateurs.</p>
<p>However, like last year's event, this year’s club event
sought to exhibit caution in the wake of the receding COVID-19
situation. The ARRL relaxed the rules as it did in 2020 by
allowing ham club members to operate from their homes or at a
common site, whichever they preferred. While last year most of
the Zuni members operated from home, five hams met at the
campground as it has done since 1984.</p>
<p>In both cases, the Zuni Loop MEF hams operators set up
temporary stations including a low-power (5 watt) transceiver
(transmitter/receiver combination) and a temporary antenna. To
power the transceiver, batteries only were used to simulate
emergency conditions. During critical situations, the hams are
prepared to recharge the batteries using a solar panel thus
extending his capabilities and alleviating the need for any
commercially generated power.</p>
<p>To make contacts, the Zuni hams used a variety of different
modes, including voice and digital communications. They also used
Morse code which, despite being considered outmoded, is a very
efficient way to communicate especially when low power is being
used.</p>
<p>One of the objectives is to ensure that his equipment will be
operational, and should a real emergency occur, and that they can
send and receive messages.</p>
<p>2021 marks the 83rd annual Field Day event. It was started in
1933 by the ARRL, the national association for radio amateurs,
and has been held every year since then, except for years of 1942
– 1946, when amateur radio was suspended during WW II.
There are currently more than 750,000 licensed radio amateurs in
the U.S., who donate the equivalent of millions of dollars per
year providing emergency and public service communications. Here
are some pictures of Zuni Loop MEF operations.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWk0Eu7X4lE7nnyxdKufNuRFHa4T8NXM-ts9NODONp1mxBzgwjfnUJiG981IF92MMOh_T07Q1QrcEyly8BUQpeZ87yFWt_hU5_mrcarzmqpIqXSAmVzw8vK52aZjwet8chWpRKRxyP_w/s1041/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+1.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWk0Eu7X4lE7nnyxdKufNuRFHa4T8NXM-ts9NODONp1mxBzgwjfnUJiG981IF92MMOh_T07Q1QrcEyly8BUQpeZ87yFWt_hU5_mrcarzmqpIqXSAmVzw8vK52aZjwet8chWpRKRxyP_w/w590-h640/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+1.jpeg" width="590" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KM6TNT
operates with all the com forts of home</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6g2CpdXnwdfzhfltq5tyDw9eyG-B7uty0W5JVR1rpaDMXYuBCo7SxvOWWyn330TqTnIjBNaSVZmlsHfsvRwdqIzvirv_vJ3EAX_wyDME63LlYYtMriA5M6Ifb5XYw3Psjtfzp56VvTk/s1024/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="648" data-original-width="1024" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6g2CpdXnwdfzhfltq5tyDw9eyG-B7uty0W5JVR1rpaDMXYuBCo7SxvOWWyn330TqTnIjBNaSVZmlsHfsvRwdqIzvirv_vJ3EAX_wyDME63LlYYtMriA5M6Ifb5XYw3Psjtfzp56VvTk/w640-h404/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KM6TNT
station</td>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK3Lq_YYWSzHB2ogf-l2TsjdFbvigknC7Yiy2c5AC63Humb8N5jX6v7aMXJ6nteWNPiqp8EVJO_zVEmCifVI3iIrJy7Fzd-kGyODwIvwUVXwinMMHbEDUlKA2lZRvn7gvA6L3bWNkr6qQ/s1280/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+3.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK3Lq_YYWSzHB2ogf-l2TsjdFbvigknC7Yiy2c5AC63Humb8N5jX6v7aMXJ6nteWNPiqp8EVJO_zVEmCifVI3iIrJy7Fzd-kGyODwIvwUVXwinMMHbEDUlKA2lZRvn7gvA6L3bWNkr6qQ/w640-h480/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+3.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KM6TNT
Station</td>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid727cVoFqJ5IgFTBN3M_dXasSUCU17YFnzFssSYEy0hMuSWWlrNQT6H5HRabs8YguimvZSctd0HwBnS6-qYJRrX3sNQGhvzMuIhS10IPbx4GV6mwj5iWDoMW9orkHk8vv1axp8EDNIc4/s640/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+6.gif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="640" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid727cVoFqJ5IgFTBN3M_dXasSUCU17YFnzFssSYEy0hMuSWWlrNQT6H5HRabs8YguimvZSctd0HwBnS6-qYJRrX3sNQGhvzMuIhS10IPbx4GV6mwj5iWDoMW9orkHk8vv1axp8EDNIc4/w640-h568/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+6.gif" width="640" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K6WHP
15m/20m/40m operating tent</td>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepQT7hFIKo7MRzn0SwlaQ17Md1yjOlmPjUIhBYoJps0pSPtMYFTs6xFfHhQ2icL435ll-xRUpMujTdEBXjjyf2KnjNCxI9cL1-waCEJndW1uMZBOFNR67eq3riGyHPHH-wmxcneF0Sfo/s640/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+5.gif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="463" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepQT7hFIKo7MRzn0SwlaQ17Md1yjOlmPjUIhBYoJps0pSPtMYFTs6xFfHhQ2icL435ll-xRUpMujTdEBXjjyf2KnjNCxI9cL1-waCEJndW1uMZBOFNR67eq3riGyHPHH-wmxcneF0Sfo/w464-h640/Zuni+Loop+MEF+pic+5.gif" width="464" /></a></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K6WHP 20m/40m
trap vertical<br /></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K6WHP winding
things up for the day<br /></td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Past Zuni Loop
20m operating position</td>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Past Zuni Loop
20m operating tent<br /></td>
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k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-72292248598504835742021-05-20T15:27:00.000-07:002021-05-20T15:27:04.471-07:00Classic St Louis Tuner Pictures<p> For those interested, here are the pictures of this classic QRP Tuner:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3eV9cwk5xwyP0Gkxm2b0YDC-vAjDcSAqU0gPbK8XyCo0H9BdyvzX_hRll98Y93DKdK05JvnbSrIfBT2TJekdWg1CRMnYDKpOE1bJITiw66Ro3MdoAjp4V1TxMxUfdCxGyfRPMbzNrJk/s2048/DSCF3001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1351" data-original-width="2048" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3eV9cwk5xwyP0Gkxm2b0YDC-vAjDcSAqU0gPbK8XyCo0H9BdyvzX_hRll98Y93DKdK05JvnbSrIfBT2TJekdWg1CRMnYDKpOE1bJITiw66Ro3MdoAjp4V1TxMxUfdCxGyfRPMbzNrJk/w640-h422/DSCF3001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8V6vAC93eVG3_9TUJxAT9VqN9SsxGBiYSbdJ-FHgn_hls2u_MBeftLcLbqXIIIlS92wKQtKVFSM1x9mEoefriWdoUai6MI3xC-2UoPlKXdO5OQ9Jo_PVHmS3qqBharVpKcCWakHyiJ0/s2048/DSCF3002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="2048" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8V6vAC93eVG3_9TUJxAT9VqN9SsxGBiYSbdJ-FHgn_hls2u_MBeftLcLbqXIIIlS92wKQtKVFSM1x9mEoefriWdoUai6MI3xC-2UoPlKXdO5OQ9Jo_PVHmS3qqBharVpKcCWakHyiJ0/w640-h378/DSCF3002.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPmmY-QaxemCTI4xLLUZq34tIpID_x0JHwDSLMCs6eftl2o5cHMVgrspnS9jJDOhOxEypz82YC6Z_yyMH7XIGt07UYi0znqL_a_HvIpuuF9CfGdGoSqi65JYthjExT0ua7Rc2F1bFJMc/s1026/St+Louis+Tuner+Article+Tour.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPmmY-QaxemCTI4xLLUZq34tIpID_x0JHwDSLMCs6eftl2o5cHMVgrspnS9jJDOhOxEypz82YC6Z_yyMH7XIGt07UYi0znqL_a_HvIpuuF9CfGdGoSqi65JYthjExT0ua7Rc2F1bFJMc/s16000/St+Louis+Tuner+Article+Tour.gif" /></a></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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<i><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">A man with one wristwatch knows what time it is; a man with two watches is never quite sure.</span></i></blockquote>
I use my scope a Tek 7704A ("Old Betsy") from the 70s and my OHR WM-2 watt meter alternately whichever one is most convenient when I am building and testing radios.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOREwDjQI4F2iM4jDx4b9JFW3F65DVzhK3ESlPPNOXgXu0_Hhd8b4bg5W2EsIm17_AxanMlxP3bKpesSq7Ly_NZhBhxoWfyfdyRDjImkbsgMvtEevlR_9-YhIuo59SRrmZU_C8E01ckG0/s1600/DSCF3010.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOREwDjQI4F2iM4jDx4b9JFW3F65DVzhK3ESlPPNOXgXu0_Hhd8b4bg5W2EsIm17_AxanMlxP3bKpesSq7Ly_NZhBhxoWfyfdyRDjImkbsgMvtEevlR_9-YhIuo59SRrmZU_C8E01ckG0/s200/DSCF3010.JPG" width="150" /></a>A couple of points here: I am a dilettante and not a wizard like my friend Dick, WB6JDH, who knows everything and can solve any problem you throw at him. (And, believe me, I have thrown a lot of problems at Dick!) Also, I have old-timey test gear that is wa-a-a-a-y complex -- like my 7704A -- and I don't know how to push the envelope on it but I try to learn. That's the fun part of ham radio.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKLmyiXOtkfg1QOhZ9RlBFkbE27YSMgYE_vwcgDhD82ZfBxNpGugEMBIwUsV6C-kTrRTUZfG4JhFymW5V-eNOEKvPEFtjh6BUdU1mT6dm1uw2rfKrHTiH3fTCSBFsxshf8XKDVsDFJ4E/s1600/DSCF3127.JPG" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKLmyiXOtkfg1QOhZ9RlBFkbE27YSMgYE_vwcgDhD82ZfBxNpGugEMBIwUsV6C-kTrRTUZfG4JhFymW5V-eNOEKvPEFtjh6BUdU1mT6dm1uw2rfKrHTiH3fTCSBFsxshf8XKDVsDFJ4E/s200/DSCF3127.JPG" width="200" /></a><p>
But, some time last year during a spate of building some kits and other projects, I noticed that the WM-2 did not agree with the Tek scope. It got to be annoying so the OHR calibration process was revisited -- but it did not obviate the discrepancy. Some time ago, Marshall Emm, N1FN (SK), and I communicated on the WM-2 re calibration and he assured me that -- in essence -- whatever gets you through the night works just fine for calibration. Obviously, the beauty of the WM-2 was that one could build a reasonably accurate QRP watt meter and calibrate it by looping DC voltage levels through the meter circuit and at each level for the three scales, setting the meter to full scale ensured an accurate RF reading. Marshall's email assured me that using a scope to calibrate the WM-2 was preferable. And that brings me to the nut of the story: how accurate is the stuff on my bench?
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The WM-2 watt meter is one of the best little watt meters going because (1) it's a kit and you can build it and (2) it's reasonably accurate and (3) it covers the 0-100 mW range. The downside is that it is a little expensive (around $150) and it is not <i>that</i> accurate.
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My Bird wattmeter (a gift from my late father) was the purported gold standard in my younger days and I relied on that.
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And I have one or two Diamond SX-200 (and other models) and find them to be surprisingly accurate. But how do I know this? Well, I checked it against "Old Betsy". In fact, I have checked them all against the Tek scope and calibrated them (when I can). I am not a metrician nor do I make any pretense at achieving a heavenly degree of accuracy, but a calibrated scope will get you "close enough for government work". <a href="https://www.ab4oj.com/test/pwrmeas.html"><u>There's a great web page on the subject by Adam Farson, AB4OJ, that can be found here.</u></a> It begins as follows:
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Adam goes into how a scope can be used to measure RF power from the peak-to-peak voltage (Vpp) of a signal displayed on an oscilloscope and his calculation of power from Vpp borders on a derivation so I will confine the formula I discovered in one of Wayne Burdick's Wilderness Radio creations -- I think it was the Sierra. Wayne says, simply:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpOmAXgVzCh5Vm3QMb1O4aGb_2TvC3bifU7RNjPA-_ULTY3rwYYBj_2PlO9lYORUhUjpqBDqicghqkgV4Ggc1c347esn3NG7mEyJeQMTwMvk_YccjUeR5av0YjjNPRmRJ70LyZJ2D370/s1600/Power+from+Vpp.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="157" data-original-width="295" height="106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpOmAXgVzCh5Vm3QMb1O4aGb_2TvC3bifU7RNjPA-_ULTY3rwYYBj_2PlO9lYORUhUjpqBDqicghqkgV4Ggc1c347esn3NG7mEyJeQMTwMvk_YccjUeR5av0YjjNPRmRJ70LyZJ2D370/s200/Power+from+Vpp.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<br />
So, when I found my Tek 7704A annoyingly out of sync with my WM-2, I bailed on the OHR calibration routine (using the test loop voltage values) and set it against what my scope told me. By using an FT-817 at 30 meters (10,100 Kc; middle of 2-30 Mc HF band) as a power source. The 5.0, 2.5, and 1.0 watt levels can be used for the 10-watt range and the 1.0 and 0.5 watt levels can serve to calibrate the 1-watt range. For the 100 mW range, I used an attenuator in series on the 0.5 watt level. See the table below for mine.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2vnrebm5zmuY_ox9NTmljcTbEEJ6vq01y-wAhCZx3KX_9Ig0b-ZUcuotmnMoy6k289Qs5_jOBZRjv5S7kfiOeJOnqVry8kAk0eoOwdGoJqLnK_Nr1eGGZvnZweC4ZOLEKnPouFziRiM/s1600/WM-2+Cal+Values.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="209" data-original-width="444" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij2vnrebm5zmuY_ox9NTmljcTbEEJ6vq01y-wAhCZx3KX_9Ig0b-ZUcuotmnMoy6k289Qs5_jOBZRjv5S7kfiOeJOnqVry8kAk0eoOwdGoJqLnK_Nr1eGGZvnZweC4ZOLEKnPouFziRiM/s400/WM-2+Cal+Values.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The last four were obtained by means of feeding the 0.5 watt output into an attenuator and knocking the signal down to levels that allow the WM-2 to be "spot checked" on the 100 mW range. Note that <i>none</i> are close to the actual scale markings so they have to be "eyeballed". (This is, in fact, true of the 10 watt and 1 watt range as well.) However, an eyeball approximation was far better than the inaccuracy the WM-2 displayed by using the voltage/test loop method. Here's the attenuator setup:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhU_XRcOM_46-cm8VZ_TOYg92ej7hJZNcW1LBhuWBiGTMQKIP1nuCXLEdLGIsgq0eh_nwwQ0esk8ckEUT2WdLvCACmCGUgkvPKa1JSeezPzb2f5zVs3gAdCOrPrGDWZ1LHWKuHjXSjUV4/s1600/DSCF3002.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhU_XRcOM_46-cm8VZ_TOYg92ej7hJZNcW1LBhuWBiGTMQKIP1nuCXLEdLGIsgq0eh_nwwQ0esk8ckEUT2WdLvCACmCGUgkvPKa1JSeezPzb2f5zVs3gAdCOrPrGDWZ1LHWKuHjXSjUV4/s640/DSCF3002.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I happened to score that Telonic attenuator at a swap meet for $10 and it is immaculate as well as dead balls on. But you have to be careful with the power input as more than a watt will probably fry the unit.
<p>
Incidentally, much earlier on I discovered the dirty little secret that the Bird watt meter slugs can become notoriously inaccurate and are not to be trusted. When it was discovered that my HF 50 watt and 100 watt slugs were all over the map, I followed the procedures outlined in several videos of which WB9FOL's is typical.
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aNZPtyPDylw" width="640"></iframe></div>
<br />
I pried open my two slugs and found that the pot had wandered off value bit but could be adjusted and I did so scaling them against the scope for lower power values. It was then that I noticed that the Diamond SX-200s were surprisingly accurate at low power and I used them to scale the two bird slugs up to the 100 watt level on my IC-706MKIIg and IC-7200 rigs.
<p>
There are, of course, methods to "reduce" or divide higher levels of power so they can be measured by a scope. These are merely extensions of the attenuator in the scope and the 10:1 probe but huskier. In fact, AB4OJ includes the principles for one in his write-up:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcjG5fxIOk-F1S27d04KpeSzuCByNx4pRuSxLglVAMB4vdcHnFS3WLPChyphenhyphensLBZexoBJrGiXIdm4mewMBawoiMvZz-L1NCP2mYLXpIWHwQ87hUs3uKGkXzmAQ6jHb51hiKsBqKbj1Wv9g/s1600/AB4OJ+power+divider.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="979" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcjG5fxIOk-F1S27d04KpeSzuCByNx4pRuSxLglVAMB4vdcHnFS3WLPChyphenhyphensLBZexoBJrGiXIdm4mewMBawoiMvZz-L1NCP2mYLXpIWHwQ87hUs3uKGkXzmAQ6jHb51hiKsBqKbj1Wv9g/s640/AB4OJ+power+divider.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
But, by reputation and use, the SX-200 and similar models are very accurate ballpark references. (I know, I know..) The scaling is as good as the WM-2 and these will handle up to 200 watts.
<br />
<i>..as I said, close enough for government work.</i>
<p>
<b>Post Script:</b> Here is a handy Vpp to Power conversion chart for 2 Vpp intervals up to power in watts.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkAue-Rzom8U95OzJKjKiNS0zf63Y8hmDahnELhkzY6GOY03JTt_cjLimsZ-wldcu2tlcsmNrN24RmHSNDHKg1Pg3UegBmkz04rgxzhD6sKiW85nOcpIEwPTn5UJy3Y5jXSZ7tWGCSz8/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="720" height="562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkAue-Rzom8U95OzJKjKiNS0zf63Y8hmDahnELhkzY6GOY03JTt_cjLimsZ-wldcu2tlcsmNrN24RmHSNDHKg1Pg3UegBmkz04rgxzhD6sKiW85nOcpIEwPTn5UJy3Y5jXSZ7tWGCSz8/w640-h562/Vpp-Watts+Convert.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-70809923866994064062020-05-25T19:41:00.002-07:002020-05-26T11:25:00.114-07:00Tidying Up Loose Ends<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhewNnZf3WQLR7Kcts0NFHk187dtimAB3QF3W2Rc43zpxamOSshrlKNLPzkSbvMacgUUn5-ttz84rf9TqbS3SRyKVuOfNJlZ9xe2dzwcQMLDvyy_SrzZq7-V59tGrOGmfGJL6W1JHaSZ60/s1600/Governor+Hair+Gel+wut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="713" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhewNnZf3WQLR7Kcts0NFHk187dtimAB3QF3W2Rc43zpxamOSshrlKNLPzkSbvMacgUUn5-ttz84rf9TqbS3SRyKVuOfNJlZ9xe2dzwcQMLDvyy_SrzZq7-V59tGrOGmfGJL6W1JHaSZ60/s200/Governor+Hair+Gel+wut.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Governor Hair Gell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was wrapped up over the last couple of weeks with how to occupy myself during the house arrest that Governor Hair Gel (the stupidest Democrat in California) and the Los Angeles County Crypt Keeper - "Dr" Barbara Ferrer - has imposed on California and Los Angeles. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLNvx4HEtkJxEW-jxPM4K-1MnptDXdklBWnxC2naZY60_kQMMY69-N3ibhj1dIOw-joSIKZyKL9RdZayub_repiRQjO9yz4ZnLerGyIAUe2LdStvvhNdL3C9nYR1PjFRSmoWR-ELvsIg/s1600/Berbara+Ferrer+-+you+are+all+doomed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="739" data-original-width="967" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLNvx4HEtkJxEW-jxPM4K-1MnptDXdklBWnxC2naZY60_kQMMY69-N3ibhj1dIOw-joSIKZyKL9RdZayub_repiRQjO9yz4ZnLerGyIAUe2LdStvvhNdL3C9nYR1PjFRSmoWR-ELvsIg/s320/Berbara+Ferrer+-+you+are+all+doomed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Dr" Barbara "Crypt Keeper" Ferrer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yeah, I know I don't live in that Dem shit hole that is Los Angeles (thank you, God!) and I am not in Hell -- but I can stand on my tippy toes and see it from my QTH. But enough of politics (sort of). Because the COVID-19 farce has conspired to cause virtually every aspect of our lives to be cancelled, we members of the Zuni Loop MEF group have decided to not trek to the mountains and do Field Day. Actually, Field Day will not be the get-together it always is as alternate plans are being concocted to accommodate social distancing and the like. (I just hate that term but understand it's necessity.) <br />
<br />
Anyway, I prattle. I decided to resume kit building and reached into my stockroom to pick a thing or two out of my inventory.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSRmgFWkDcFdq1Y7SIylf53ABUxObHNK4UfoZ5veMvAlDblbXp5AbkubKsO5N7HNXa_dGIvLYkW2ADkllEd0CxulZtvSdBJfnNiDBMShOlW8ww-YSx7ieTqeQcs-S3m4tQF_FqOqqIpA/s1600/top..men.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="911" height="441" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSRmgFWkDcFdq1Y7SIylf53ABUxObHNK4UfoZ5veMvAlDblbXp5AbkubKsO5N7HNXa_dGIvLYkW2ADkllEd0CxulZtvSdBJfnNiDBMShOlW8ww-YSx7ieTqeQcs-S3m4tQF_FqOqqIpA/s640/top..men.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me emerging from the treasure trove with a couple of items</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Long story short, I built two 30 meter kits: one of Diz's Kits and Parts 5-Watter and the remaining Midway ME-30+ I got several weeks ago. Both went smoothly at first but the road had some "bumps" and I had to iron out some tools and techniques. I will write up one of the "bumps" here and will write up the other "bump" and the 5-Watter build in a subsequent post.<br />
<br />
Let's cover the Midway ME-30+ kit first. I won't do the full review because, let's face it, it is basically identical to the ME-80+ kit in assembly and materials except for the band differences and it went together quite well. I still love these little radios and -- years on from my original cruise through Dave Benson's kits -- I now understand the circuit and marvel how neat it really is. The VFO is rock stable and the receiver is incredibly sensitive. Both the ME-80+ and ME-30+ hear down to -130 dBm. <br />
<br />
However, in completing the ME-30+ and being generally happy with the build, I was somewhat apprehensive because the most that could be coaxed out of it was just a smidge over a half a watt. Going back over the rig, I noted that I had populated the BPF middle cap with a 68 pF value instead of a 680 pF cap. (That is, "680" does NOT mean 680 pF, it means 68 pF.)<br />
<br />
Live and [re]learn, I guess. That got me up to just over 1 watt. So as I was trouble shooting this, I started a letter to to the Midway Express owner, Rick Choy, about this matter:<br />
<br />
<blockquote>
<i>Rick,<br />
<br />
Sorry to intrude on your Memorial Day holiday -- and this need only be addressed in your convenience -- but I have some questions re your 30m kit I just recently finished, to wit, is it performing to spec? I believe it is; just wanted to confirm. Here are the facts:<br />
<br />
(1) Basically, there were no problems with the build/checkout but I could only manage to get just over 1 watt out of it when done.<br />
<br />
(2) Went back through and checked ALL components and found none misplaced nor any solder bridges, bad joints, etc.<br />
<br />
(3) I checked most of the voltages versus the schematic -- specifically the XMIT chain -- and they were 100 percent. <br />
<br />
(4) I checked the signal levels and the appeared normal.<br />
<br />
(5) Specifically, I checked the signal at the base of Q6 and found that to be approx 2.5 Vpp. <br />
<br />
(6) The output at the collector with the pot wide open was 27 Vpp or 1.8 watts (27^2/400).<br />
<br />
(7) The output at the BNC with the pot wide open was 23.5 Vpp or 1.4 watts (23.5^2/400).<br />
<br />
(8) I note that the BPF drops the signal almost 1/2 watt. <br />
<br />
I wanted to see if this is normal because the ME-80+ I built had an output of more than 2 watts. Of course, that was 80m and this is 30m. Also, I have no heartburn about this because I will throttle this little radio back to 990 mW so I can work QRPp. Just checking. Screen shots below.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
k6whp</i></blockquote>
<br />
But, after I got to thinking about this, I realized I could do a comparison of the ME-80+ and the ME-30+ and see what's what. So the letter was not sent. Basically, what came up was the ME-30+ was not losing a lot into the BPF -- at least not as much as the ME-80+ was. Here is a comparison table of the results:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlQeexPM1jCME9jnsDGnOeuQnvUDpU8reMsCV1fIgHPVZWnohwfb0IuxOmIRSJII8ptHXXQ8DdEXYJfqtxps6ECq0c413ApIK-E5T_Htum63CxSjZbtPc-udoDWicbbzfsLLV9rpvD5s/s1600/ME-30+v+ME-80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="253" data-original-width="601" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlQeexPM1jCME9jnsDGnOeuQnvUDpU8reMsCV1fIgHPVZWnohwfb0IuxOmIRSJII8ptHXXQ8DdEXYJfqtxps6ECq0c413ApIK-E5T_Htum63CxSjZbtPc-udoDWicbbzfsLLV9rpvD5s/s640/ME-30+v+ME-80.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So, it appears that the ME-30+ is doing the best it can despite having more drive (2.4 Vpp versus 2.0 Vpp) which probably means that the Q6 in the rig is a little weak. Here are the traces for comparison.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfxdkba1ypAdW4TJ4rtcXt3fSJmQ9VBbigsB5KcOAA-TlhX0YUGo_ZovpSvQxdqkqM__8OYRzzdKSfPWucJtCAL13hygeqqbjzNqUHwt1a_qh6ug13iylW8N19N9frFKUktrVIlZXfBE/s1600/ME-30+Signals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="1045" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfxdkba1ypAdW4TJ4rtcXt3fSJmQ9VBbigsB5KcOAA-TlhX0YUGo_ZovpSvQxdqkqM__8OYRzzdKSfPWucJtCAL13hygeqqbjzNqUHwt1a_qh6ug13iylW8N19N9frFKUktrVIlZXfBE/s640/ME-30+Signals.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ME-30+ Signals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwFrOva8N1c0CFcWVsNYMjwtrFhyphenhyphenFNCf5fhDj815h6eKVwtEmOSFLUB16N5ZXrnQxCd_y44Kj7c6_fp55roKFX4qQhbz4VTQZWKTJ5lfMKDJT2ZCDGFC0m-6dohX1p_XgA1lK2ORD7ZIE/s1600/ME-80+Signals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="1127" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwFrOva8N1c0CFcWVsNYMjwtrFhyphenhyphenFNCf5fhDj815h6eKVwtEmOSFLUB16N5ZXrnQxCd_y44Kj7c6_fp55roKFX4qQhbz4VTQZWKTJ5lfMKDJT2ZCDGFC0m-6dohX1p_XgA1lK2ORD7ZIE/s640/ME-80+Signals.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ME-80+ Signals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So the bottom line is that these kits are fun to build and operate and they are small and have a "heft" to them so that you won't hesitate to take the radio with you to a local park or mountain top, etc. (Some of the these fragile "pocket" radios feel like they will fold up in a stiff breeze.)<br />
<br />
<i>..so that's it for now. Next up, a man with two watches is never quite sure.</i>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-3358462930965768762020-04-15T14:24:00.002-07:002020-12-03T23:34:08.358-08:00Midway Electronics ME-80+ Kit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTvp8qucrx0EBZLZrTRDJuE7ZNCJIm8k1v5uwp6seEpnDq07cLOw71tWnXTD1Dpmtgu9ZtZl6OqJqhEaVtCJDkuWjriovvy5ncrvCkOS2LsYHDxWZJ3KWFHB7Dgfal1yYNODs556rTTms/s1600/ME20%252B+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTvp8qucrx0EBZLZrTRDJuE7ZNCJIm8k1v5uwp6seEpnDq07cLOw71tWnXTD1Dpmtgu9ZtZl6OqJqhEaVtCJDkuWjriovvy5ncrvCkOS2LsYHDxWZJ3KWFHB7Dgfal1yYNODs556rTTms/s320/ME20%252B+1.jpg" width="320" height="243" data-original-width="631" data-original-height="480" /></a></div>The previous post mentioned Midway Electronics' ME-XX+ kits -- the reincarnation of Dave Benson's mid-1990s SW-XX+ kits -- and how I was looking forward to building them to recapture a misspent youth. Well, as of this writing, I have completed the ME-80+ (80m version) and wanted to offer up some comments and pictures for your perusal. <br />
<br />
Firstly, let me say that I ordered the full-blown kit -- board, parts, case, and all the fixins' -- and I do not regret it at all. At first, I thought I would have to replace the 100K Ohm tuning pot with the obligatory 10-turn replacement but the case does not allow it space for it. However, the original pot is of good quality and certainly adequate. <br />
<br />
All considred, the Midway guy has done a superb job of offering up a complete radio with some really nice touches. <br />
<br />
In addition to the decent case and hardware and knobs, there are some thoughtful "extras" thrown in that make the kit and resultant radio a "keeper". Thoughtfully provided are the header strips and cabling to give the radio that finished look. Also, the snap-in standoffs are pretty easy to install. Although I went with my own standoffs, the ability to extract the board from the case by unfastening the cables and lifting it out makes for easy debugging and repair. I would only add that Dave's original kits did not have an on/off switch and the Midway kits don't either; it was something I always lamented. (As you can see from the pictures below, I added a a switch.) <br />
<br />
Diving into the kit is a lot of fun. While, conceptually, it's straight forward to build and the manual is nearly identical to Dave Benson's SWL manuals, it is not part-by-part but rather block by block. (Or, if you will, quadrant by quadrant; see sample below.) <br />
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My philosophy regarding kit building is like my old adage: "I burn up more rolls of solder than I do log books." I take it slowly and enjoy it. I mean, after all, it's not like I don't have any radios to operate. At a decent, leisurely pace, it took me four days to build the kit working two hours per night.<br />
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The board is superb! In fact, it is better than Dave's boards as I recall. But I would caution you that, if you are not an experienced kit builder, you'd best inventory the parts and organize them so you gain some familiarity. There is nothing worse than stuffing a 47 Ohm resistor into the holes for a 47K Ohm resistor's holes and have to dig out the mistake during the checkout process. Also, read and understand the freaking manual first. There are some tips and caveats in there that add to the fun of getting the build right. <br />
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Once assembled, the checkout is very simple and -- quite literally -- can be accomplished with a DMM and your station rig. For example, at power-up, I heard nothing on both receive or transmit and resorted to the voltage schematic provided. I discovered no Vcc present at the two receive SA612 ICs and scattered places around the board. When I examined the traces from the 78L08 voltage regulator output to these ICs I noted that I had installed D2 (a 1N4148 diode) "upside down" and it was a roadblock to the DC rails. This little tidbit was addressed in the manual:<br />
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Correcting this (flipping the diode) cleared up 99.99% of the problems.<br />
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This next point was not really an error on my part. Dave's design uses three of the old Toko IF transformer cans -- two in the transmitter and one on the receiver. Aligning the radio is a simple matter of tweaking the cans to obtain a peak signal out (transmitter) or a peak signal in (receiver). The transmitter was no problem and I was able to peak the radio at 2.5 watts. (Despite the advisory to throttle the rig back to 1.5 watts, I felt comfortable at having it output 2 watts.) <br />
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But, when I attempted to peak the receiver, it was number than a rock. In adjusting the receiver transformer, I noticed that the slug in the can neither moved up nor down and reasoned that the threads had been stripped. The best it could hear was about -70 dB. So, since I had a couple of those Toko transformers on hand (marked "412F123"), I opted to wick out the old one and replace it. This was a tricky job but, once accomplished, the little receiver heard all the way down to an honest -130 dB!<br />
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My recommendation is that, when you inventory the parts, check out each transformer by <i>carefully</i> screwing the slug in and out to make sure it travels up and down. If one does not, ask Midway for a replacement. Also, please note that I do NOT lay this at Midway's feet. Their conscientiousness and customer service and kit quality is stupendous! One just slipped through! <br />
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The final step is to set the frequency by inserting in an NP0 cap into C7 for the desired range. As it turned out, mine required a 56 pF cap (that actually measured 60 pF) which gave the little radio a range of 3.499-3.537 MHz. <br />
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I can live with that! Anyway, here are some pictures:<br />
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This is a fun kit that results in a serious radio that has been proven over the years and is a great starter kit for those who have graduated from the Chinese Pixies and want to get their hands on something with a little meat on its bones.<br />
<b><br />
<i>..now on to the ME30+ kit!</i></b><br />
k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-74174661946541807692020-03-31T09:52:00.000-07:002020-03-31T10:01:20.903-07:00Living in the past - Dave Benson's SW+ radios reincarnated!Back in my early days of QRP -- mid 90s to be approximate -- I fell in love with building kits as a byproduct of this black art. My first was the marvelous OHR-100 One which convinced me that low-power contacts to Northern California (I live in SoCal) were do-able on five watts.<br />
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This was followed by one of Dave Benson's SW+ series -- an SW-30+ for 30 meters -- that was started on a Friday evening and concluded with an alignment session on a rainy Sunday evening. After strapping it to an old 4BTV vertical <i>leaning</i> against my patio wall (the only option available), I pumped 1.5 watts out to the ionosphere and landed WB0CFF in Minnesota. The memory of that QSO still makes my hair stand on end even though I have worked considerable DX since then. <br />
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That said and in a possible effort to re-live past triumphs, I ordered a Midway Electronics ME-30+ kit -- the "board only" option -- as a means to "fill in the gap" between my old SW-40+ and SW-20+ builds that grace the shelves. For the curious, I thought I'd pass along a few comments and impressions. <br />
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It seems that Dave Benson granted the proprietor license to exactly reproduce and distribute his popular SW+ 2-watt kits, arguably part of QRP's heritage and as significant as the NorCal 40A and similar.<br />
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The kit was received in short order but, sadly, it was the 80m kit. (80 meters is dogmeat in Southern California and in my neighborhood specifically.) However, email conversations with the owner resulted in him sending along the 30m components with an advisory to keep the 80m components. I was flummoxed with the initial speed of delivery, the follow-up correction, and the overall friendliness and attitude of Midway with respect to customer service. (To be sure, I planned to return the 80m part but read on.)<br />
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The kit(s) -- boards, parts, manuals -- are, as stated, an exact replica of Dave's original product. Moreover, the prices are very similar to the very reasonable prices that Dave used to charge: $60 (versus $55) for the board kit, $92.50 for the board kit and controls and project box (versus $95). Given that the Toko coils and 8-pin DIP NE602s are rare, I find this astounding. The quality of the PCB is extremely good and it is identical to Dave's. The manual comes spiral bound and as easily understandable as Dave's was.<br />
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I was so wrought with guilt over being told to keep the 80m parts that I requested he send me the makings for both radios to be "full" kits. That's an additional board, front and back panel components and knobs, and two cases; a very reasonable price was quoted and they are on their way. The subsequent order was delivered and the quality of the cases are quite good. The only niggling downside is they fit the board and controls and connectors exactly leaving little room to stuff additional items like a keyer chip board and frequency enunciator. But that's not Midway's problem, that's my problem. <br />
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The kits, components, cases, etc. are available in 80m, 40m, 30m, and 20m editions on Midway's website:<br />
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<a href="https://midwayelectronics.us/qrp/">https://midwayelectronics.us/qrp/</a><br />
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They are also available on eBay. Search for ME40+, ME30+, or ME20+ -- and presumably the ME80+ will be available there soon. <br />
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In summary, I am very happy this gentleman has chosen to bring back this kit. It provides us old codgers a chance to relive our past. For those "new" to QRP an opportunity, it's a opportunity to develop their understanding of radio and electronics as "Elmer 101" courses and in depth discussions abound for this radio.<br />
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When I get this kit built, I will post pictures and notes for those interested.<br />
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Usual disclaimer: no pecuniary interest, etc.k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-57059272982375128562020-01-22T12:53:00.000-08:002020-01-22T12:53:08.283-08:00Zuni WFD Get-Together Venue Change!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Mike, N6MST, just saved our bacon. All the way up in Bakersfield, he spied that Mile Square Park -- where we were originally to meet - was going to be occupied the entire wekend by the Vietnamese New Year -- Tet - celebration so, consequently, we are moving the venue a little down from there. <br />
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My so-called Plan "B" has become Plan "A" and it involves our commandeering a part of the green belt in my community. There are trees and a vast open space and, with our bringing two or three portable tables and chairs, we can set up there. See the pictures below. The Green Valley Park offers these advantages:<br />
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(1) Some trees.<br />
(2) Open spaces where verticals and poles for antennas can be erected.<br />
(3) Abundance of free parking that is walking-close to where we would set up.<br />
(4) No crowds to speak of.<br />
(5) Restaurants/7Elevens close by. CostCo also close. ($1.50 dog and a coke special ant their "food court".)<br />
(6) Close to my QTH so we can grab some stuff from my shack/bench if we need to.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;">Some downside: we are going to need for folks to bring chairs and another table. I have a table and two chairs but it's not conducive to operating or outgassing if everyone does not have a chair.</span></span><br />
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So, we will still coordinate on the PAPA System so give us a call there if you are lost. <br />
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Sorry for the change but this should still be tons of fun and we're still doing the pizza debrief afterwards.<br />
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To get here, head South on the 405 to the Brookhurst Street and go under the freeway and loop around so you're heading North on Brookhurst. turn right on Warner and proceed past Ward (the next light) to Los Jardines wher you take a right. we'll be listening on PAPA or 146.52 MHz to talk you in. <br />
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<br />k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-67232431540686112332020-01-13T17:38:00.001-08:002020-01-13T17:44:11.866-08:00Get a grip..In an attempt to scrape some rust off my CW fist, I am currently matriculating through the CW OPs CW Academy and it is a marvelous experience. Sure it's the beginner class and sure I can solid copy around 15 WPM but I am doing this for the discipline -- and getting myself into a routine of practicing my CW daily.<br />
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But more on that later. The purpose of this post is to bring CW operators attention to a discovery I made -- thanks to my wife. She found this stuff called Grip Liner Magic Cover which is billed as a non-adhesive and non-slip cupboard liner for dishes and glassware. It is by Kittrich Corp in Pomona, California and can be found in many homewares stores, super markets, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Cover-Counter-Surface-Setting/dp/B000BQYG1C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=grip+liner+magic+cover&qid=1578965853&sr=8-3">and it and variants are available on Amazon</a>. (You do your own search.) <br />
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A small square of this stuff anchors my paddles to the desktop and essentially squelches any side-to-side slipping. So far, the squares I have been using for my Bencher (below) and Kent (out on the shack) are well over six months old. So, a roll of this stuff should last a lifetime -- and more. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJloAjK-iCAyC4mqaXvkRBvn9v9GhoL50pkzkrYn2fSVAH4_9C3sdrDoepm0ZPWlN4lkU06SNydskq5w94xHEvdZ5Zkwx4p_ep-5ybJncrHeu2f9lJR0Js6nc2DsIQK2Z7lPvb0R9tErM/s1600/DSCF3003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1600" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJloAjK-iCAyC4mqaXvkRBvn9v9GhoL50pkzkrYn2fSVAH4_9C3sdrDoepm0ZPWlN4lkU06SNydskq5w94xHEvdZ5Zkwx4p_ep-5ybJncrHeu2f9lJR0Js6nc2DsIQK2Z7lPvb0R9tErM/s640/DSCF3003.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvyddaVgMKVUpE_JWzdQ_tfCNLbpgNEArvaZd4q3qHlUfwYq-SZ0K7-LkarABEienNQS3yc2wd0VMe0-s8GUxqF-O_8Iu9_8XycJpfFMBafKIKVgMd0oteEQDsxdWVvHIU8UUSxXBmGk/s1600/DSCF3001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="1600" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvyddaVgMKVUpE_JWzdQ_tfCNLbpgNEArvaZd4q3qHlUfwYq-SZ0K7-LkarABEienNQS3yc2wd0VMe0-s8GUxqF-O_8Iu9_8XycJpfFMBafKIKVgMd0oteEQDsxdWVvHIU8UUSxXBmGk/s640/DSCF3001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-74193468310170300022020-01-08T12:54:00.001-08:002020-01-09T08:18:17.997-08:00It Begins! Prepping for Zuni Loop MEF Field Day 2020!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcbz3-vdD1ZIulL3zut7XdEXLI7K5ibhCzABXuHJ8b_vBNJiIXr7QfldoHeKdiRGNoMnY4Kvcv0m7_t7nnUzLOp-uVFNHoC0loT4vj0iiuHITS7e6Mq1gyp4Ea1CvD6vpvw55CUHcytY/s1600/Cam+Hartford%252C+SK.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="504" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcbz3-vdD1ZIulL3zut7XdEXLI7K5ibhCzABXuHJ8b_vBNJiIXr7QfldoHeKdiRGNoMnY4Kvcv0m7_t7nnUzLOp-uVFNHoC0loT4vj0iiuHITS7e6Mq1gyp4Ea1CvD6vpvw55CUHcytY/s320/Cam+Hartford%252C+SK.png" width="234" /></a></div><u><b>Rust Never Sleeps!</b></u><br />
The Zuni Loop Mountain Expeditionary Force is an ad hoc association of some of the best and brightest QRP ops who came together each year for ARRL Field Day. One of the groups consistent mainstays and organizer for the past 35 years was Cam Hartford, N6GA, who ensured that QRP and antenna and operation experimentation resulted in good contest results, an enhancement of participant knowledge, operating skills, and -- mainly -- fun!<br />
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Sadly, Cam left us last year before Field Day and we carried on as best we could. But, armed with that rebuilding experience and a determination to regain past glory, we are resolved to not let the tradition of Zuni Loop fade away. What we have going for us is this tradition and one heck of a great location. But we will peak of that later on. For now, the planning begins.<br />
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<u><b>Where We Sit Now</b></u><br />
<span style="color: red;">We need more ops.</span> So far we have a commitment from three veterans and four promising new-comers: John, n6vcw (trustee of Cam's N6GA callsign - now officially assigned to the Zuni Loop MEF), Ed, KM6TNT, Matt, KM6TOA, and Mike, N6MST. The returning regulars include Dick, WB6JDH, myself, K6WHP, and long-time Zuni veteran, Keith Clark, W6SIY. Ed has done a great job in recruiting and has secured three new hams to join us for 2020. We welcome them and others with a profound interest in QRP and pushing the envelope. If you are intrigued and proximate to Southern California, let us know. <a href="mailto:k6whp@socal.rr.com"><u><b>My email is good in QRZ under my call sign or click on this link and blast away!</b></u></a><br />
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<u><b>Preparation and Related Logisics</b></u> <br />
Our first step in preparing for Field Day will be participation in the Winter Field Day on 25-26 January. <a href="http://www.ocparks.com/parks/mile/" target="_blank"><u><b>We will be setting up in Orange County at Mile Square Park in Fountain Valley.</b></u></a><br />
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While Winter Field Day is a contest and we will set up to operate -- <a href="https://www.winterfieldday.com/"><u><b>patterned after the Summer Field Day but with a few rule changes</a></b></u> -- our emphasis will be a little different. Our main goals will be to get to know one another, check out some equipment and antennas, orient folks not familiar to in-the-field QRP operation, and generally observe the newly coined variant of the Zuni Loop motto:<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><i>We're deadly serious about having fun!</i></b></span></span><br />
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Although Winter Field Day goes overnight (like Field Day) for two days, we will only set up and operate for a short time, from about 0900L PST until about 1500L PST. Note that the actual contesting starts -- like FD -- at 1100L but we want to get a head start with prep and such. Also, I live adjacent to the park and will be heading over early to stake out tables and trees at an appropriate site. (Probably will be "spot #2" per the map below.) If you wish to coordinate the entry and "carpool" into the park, there is parking in the adjacent strip mall next to my QTH. I would recommend coordinating with Ed, KM6TNT, on this noting that we both can be found on the PAPA system. It is one of those sprawling, linked "closed but welcoming" repeater system <a href="http://papasys.com/dmr/RPT-PAGE/"><u><b>whose info can be found at this link here</b></u></a>. Suggest PAPA 03 or PAPA 04 as you penetrate Orange County. <br />
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Mile Square Park park charges $5 admission on Saturdays and does not allow re-entry (unless you pony up again), so I recommend picking up something -- sammiches, sodas, etc. -- for lunch around noon time if only to stave off hunger. <i><span style="color: red;"><b>We will probably have donuts and/or bagels available at first but if you you are a coffee drinker, you are on notice that I am not and your daily caffeine hit is your responsibility.</b></span> </i><br />
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We plan on folding our tents and heading over to a pizza joint close by where we can eat, "hydrate ourselves", and debrief. This socializing will be an invaluable opportunity to gather our thoughts and ideas in preparation for the real thing.<br />
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<u><b>Prerequisites and Skills Required</b></u> <br />
Again, if it looks like you want to participate in the Zuni Loop MEF effort this is a great way to get to know the folks. If your CW is rusty or non-existent, don't worry! we do phone too and you will be surprised how -- with a little coaching -- you can pick up CW contesting by logging and using a CW reader. Also, don't let low power throw you. Up at 7,000 feet, a five watt signal carries pretty far. Several of us have done WAS (Worked All States) during a field day. (I have done it three times and once I came within four states of doing a "double WAS".) Also, foreign countries now participate in Field Day so there's a chance for DX as well. <br />
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Send me an email and I'll answer any questions you might have.<br />
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<u><b>Park Environment</b></u><br />
For reference and orientation, here's some pictures of the Mile Square Park surrounds. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEMZRLZpBkzcFyNYjdn7BxCsSQBbDZ2etCIeceINob7f3EqZPZ6nE8QH_DruYFVrcOp1s0MTNgaNMigoBF2ayhtv4w3gykFazzTRThN2vnj71PTMDsP-KldTEdfZq5S5feh98HLLtXgk/s1600/Mile+Square+Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="828" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEMZRLZpBkzcFyNYjdn7BxCsSQBbDZ2etCIeceINob7f3EqZPZ6nE8QH_DruYFVrcOp1s0MTNgaNMigoBF2ayhtv4w3gykFazzTRThN2vnj71PTMDsP-KldTEdfZq5S5feh98HLLtXgk/s640/Mile+Square+Map.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K6WHP QTH, External Parking, and Mile Square Park Spots</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpGnfKycrOgnrr4MP-wgzQ9YhMwDTXWLnDH6x2S3k8DTtdMHDntwHiY_91CrL1VHzdt_dZJLkEAIy9qICaxPMNnnexoKjWPFqOZ171hDH_HpMBXJMO6Rqv3Z1ty2lQdpNmaS8_7aBlRg/s1600/MILE+SQUARE+PARK+MAP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpGnfKycrOgnrr4MP-wgzQ9YhMwDTXWLnDH6x2S3k8DTtdMHDntwHiY_91CrL1VHzdt_dZJLkEAIy9qICaxPMNnnexoKjWPFqOZ171hDH_HpMBXJMO6Rqv3Z1ty2lQdpNmaS8_7aBlRg/s640/MILE+SQUARE+PARK+MAP.jpg" width="389" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map of Mile Square Park</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCjhtPG8HYBSjWRiJqO2GK4lRPlSxDDwPJ8tpQG3DvO8EdFW6RoENAADrXceO89nSKXEUsfjCVh0WEZVEbrFbboMX95AsYtoCugoI34v6I4T9FK99M3QfMmfhRYZeBCl4pxDXlcuE3xA/s1600/Mile+Square+Park+Spot+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="1191" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCjhtPG8HYBSjWRiJqO2GK4lRPlSxDDwPJ8tpQG3DvO8EdFW6RoENAADrXceO89nSKXEUsfjCVh0WEZVEbrFbboMX95AsYtoCugoI34v6I4T9FK99M3QfMmfhRYZeBCl4pxDXlcuE3xA/s640/Mile+Square+Park+Spot+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdvJbiihG1BPt_UNbbVn2Jw2X2hcQ_WTin_Ilu7W6h_P7YioIqDzhSBriK7icj2duDnJ35n7-nmgKHqwFzZNxdOWmMch-39QUzxOdUp7_f6D3BnJtp6LabQbX8U49vcnajhcJvpAGUdw/s1600/Mile+Square+Park+Spot+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="1120" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdvJbiihG1BPt_UNbbVn2Jw2X2hcQ_WTin_Ilu7W6h_P7YioIqDzhSBriK7icj2duDnJ35n7-nmgKHqwFzZNxdOWmMch-39QUzxOdUp7_f6D3BnJtp6LabQbX8U49vcnajhcJvpAGUdw/s640/Mile+Square+Park+Spot+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-78130397168403027552019-12-20T21:21:00.001-08:002019-12-21T10:29:32.263-08:00Simply Half-Wave Trapped Antennas Addendum 1 - Nice to Have Stuff<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iaVvTAKfYNwBSd-KfjAGXTsLZ1sRyOCAszv7IaNeAaER8_jMtI-hxaYoL5DQoa2YUiufJrBr7wk69kr67EYn1fK2IyJrKmUzVRMPMb8Yq_-QJ8Rf7MT5JMMMooyauNeUytWGrHickGE/s1600/Paul+Carlson%2527s+Lab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="993" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iaVvTAKfYNwBSd-KfjAGXTsLZ1sRyOCAszv7IaNeAaER8_jMtI-hxaYoL5DQoa2YUiufJrBr7wk69kr67EYn1fK2IyJrKmUzVRMPMb8Yq_-QJ8Rf7MT5JMMMooyauNeUytWGrHickGE/s400/Paul+Carlson%2527s+Lab.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Paul Carlson in a small part of his lab</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>This is a short rant about [electronic] tools and what you should anticipate arming yourself with. <br />
<br />
If you are new to ham radio and foresee getting into serious tinkering, First get yourself a DMM (Digital Multimeter). <br />
<br />
Period. <br />
<br />
These range from literally free (with a coupon from Harbor Freight Tools) to a Fluke (or higher grade instrument) that will cost you almost a thousand buckos. Scout YouTube for some reviews but cease once your eyes begin to glass over. Guys like Dave, the histrionic Aussie host of the EEVBLOG series, will have you believing you cannot survive without owning a Fluke meter that can withstand being thrown off a skyscraper. M. J. Lortin, the laconic Englishman, will have you sound asleep five minutes into <i>part one</i> of an hour long video of which there are two additional parts. <br />
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Other guys will show you anywhere from three to ten DMMs they bought just so they can do a review of the infinitesimally subtle differences between each. Trust me, if you get a decent one for about $15-50 with auto-ranging and a few other features you might want, you will be fine. Also, trust me: it will <i>not</i> be the last one you own.<br />
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O.K., that covers DMMs and we'll leave oscilloscopes for later. But, when you get one, you will be surprised how you did without it. <br />
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I would only add -- for the moment -- that you make a modest investment into three items that will save you a lot of headaches, guesswork, and make this corner of antenna and radio building a lot of fun. These are a component checker, an LC meter, and an antenna analyzer. Examples of these are shown below <b><i>but are not exact product recommendations</i></b>. They are part of the bounty of cheap Chinese stuff exported and sold on eBay for a reasonable price. Recommendations can be sought amongst friends and on VHF/UHF technical nets and round tables. Wise shopping will set you back from $20-100 tops.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZssi7N-A11wbWCL7_HjCo9EbA8SoP3xAudPt5vUwvS2FYKMGb6PfOere1ZSqPDQq6py8ormk_xAIX7nomx0c-6DJ6Ow9xwUKw0GBDQqkgyCiIu2lX7V_PTGUvpu-RGZJLpf2hA7Qveg/s1600/TEST+EQUIP+Multi-Function+Component+Checker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="620" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZssi7N-A11wbWCL7_HjCo9EbA8SoP3xAudPt5vUwvS2FYKMGb6PfOere1ZSqPDQq6py8ormk_xAIX7nomx0c-6DJ6Ow9xwUKw0GBDQqkgyCiIu2lX7V_PTGUvpu-RGZJLpf2hA7Qveg/s400/TEST+EQUIP+Multi-Function+Component+Checker.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Component checkers are surprisingly good at telling you a lot about each little doodad you hoover up at swap meets from transistors to inductors and including resistors, capacitors, diodes, and other stuff. They might even be good enough to tell you about the inductors and capacitors you are using for your traps. They are around $15-25 on eBay.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-EZYY51p-70ZwQTJYn63fn83pgZVWvWR4QkkWclEzj4txud-RgZ2Sxb48vPVk-poh2-JqZHCLD5qwNYjszT8c-g_gZEWQ4DMOd1EAzFvEPP7j8WnrawLyFp74-yC-GZUennX1P7iVPnc/s1600/TEST+EQUIP+LC+Meter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="790" data-original-width="863" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-EZYY51p-70ZwQTJYn63fn83pgZVWvWR4QkkWclEzj4txud-RgZ2Sxb48vPVk-poh2-JqZHCLD5qwNYjszT8c-g_gZEWQ4DMOd1EAzFvEPP7j8WnrawLyFp74-yC-GZUennX1P7iVPnc/s400/TEST+EQUIP+LC+Meter.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>LC meters are higher quality gadgets that give you a more accurate reading of the inductors and capacitors. If your component checker is crappy, then consider one of these. They are a little more than $20 on eBay.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9gK4CfpsAAkNhmteZpb4TMI7wiuHgPqdUrO8o-JZQEO7J-Snxe_52GYUu50CZnXVbYz-kfJRg9kA3fSoaAu8tu38zrbq2gJ-b3lnrZpV5tF6BzF43f-FywUhg2XhUGNq1RNvpvk0v1E/s1600/SARK+100+Picture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="832" data-original-width="498" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9gK4CfpsAAkNhmteZpb4TMI7wiuHgPqdUrO8o-JZQEO7J-Snxe_52GYUu50CZnXVbYz-kfJRg9kA3fSoaAu8tu38zrbq2gJ-b3lnrZpV5tF6BzF43f-FywUhg2XhUGNq1RNvpvk0v1E/s400/SARK+100+Picture.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>Antenna analyzers range from cheap to literally a kilobuck (or more). If you pick up one for HF only (1-60 MHz), expect to pay around $50-80 for a low end one. I have a couple I picked up in that price range and am perfectly content with what they show me and don't need curves of graphs drawn.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtImchobIHslmMwogxAuBEangxQv4jA6IICUTDzRWvPro6m2U1-0QYjq0HZcxIQnT29bMkZd8d8rsJo9Mk78GIfyaHz8r7Ed9J3rb8Iec2h7T4HzC-klMZOSwA5VcNWDHgD91Yf1dohY/s1600/NanoVNA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="854" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtImchobIHslmMwogxAuBEangxQv4jA6IICUTDzRWvPro6m2U1-0QYjq0HZcxIQnT29bMkZd8d8rsJo9Mk78GIfyaHz8r7Ed9J3rb8Iec2h7T4HzC-klMZOSwA5VcNWDHgD91Yf1dohY/s400/NanoVNA.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>But, trust me, you start tinkering and you will always see "something better" and end up having about three or four items that essentially do the same thing. Of late, there is a "NanoVNA" on eBay that sells for about $60 and will actually draw curves of your "network" (the trap). If it is sexy enough to compel you to open your wallet, knock yourself out.<br />
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If you want to go old school, you might consider picking up something called a Grid Dip Meter or "GDO" (Grid Dip Oscillator). Back in the day (the 1950s onward), these were considered the "Swiss Army Knife" of test instruments as they could be used to test LC tank circuits, antenna resonance, and even serve as a signal generator. Here, Alan Wolke, W2AEW, does a nice video on how these can be used. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_HwIL6mqq_k" width="480"></iframe></div><br />
When my dad passed away back in 1992, I inherited his Millen 90651A which, at the time, was considered the Cadillac of GDOs. <a href="https://righthandofzod.blogspot.com/2013/02/my-millen-gdo-jones.html"><b>I developed a "jones" for these and over the course of time owned a number.</b></a> The collection dwindled but I kept my dad's and the cream of the crop and still use them quite a bit, to wit:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNPOOG7SN_EVKPnKL6qKzTaGllG_jo-AD6ETo98cwR_fDASA78uTrgCoJfJHFlAwv43zz17iCjhEZwyPojc8tVVJ9t25H0Lzz758bKL1U4CmbBpouEctihohI5-eHFDdvQ6Lgyx3DnEE/s1600/DSCF3012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNPOOG7SN_EVKPnKL6qKzTaGllG_jo-AD6ETo98cwR_fDASA78uTrgCoJfJHFlAwv43zz17iCjhEZwyPojc8tVVJ9t25H0Lzz758bKL1U4CmbBpouEctihohI5-eHFDdvQ6Lgyx3DnEE/s640/DSCF3012.JPG" width="640" height="446" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1115" /></a></div><br />
The Heathkit transistorized version of this -- like the one in Alan's video -- is worthwhile and is as near as good as the Millen. The Millens and the Heathkits are not worth owning if they are in questionable condition or do not have the coils with them. Most of the time, the ones offered on eBay are dog meat and way overpriced at that. Occasionally, one will come along and is worth nabbing. Even better is picking up one at a swap meet or ham fest. <br />
<br />
Alan produces some outstanding technical videos and they are well worth watching. His work is thorough, explanations are straightforward, and he publishes those magnificent notes he makes for download from a link on each video. <br />
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Another simple "old-school" tool is the noise bridge. These are simple circuits that generate white noise. <a href="http://users.monash.edu.au/~ralphk/noise-bridge.html"><b>As explained by an Australian, Ralph Klimek in a 1995 article on his website:</b></a><br />
<blockquote>A noise bridge is an impedance measuring device that can measure real and imaginary components of complex impedance at RF frequencies. It uses a radio receiver as a detection device and a broadband noise source as the excitation source for the bridge. This eliminates the need for a precision signal generator notwithstanding the fact that the average signal generator does not have sufficient output amplitude to excite and bridge and simple detector. A radio receiver is an excellent detector being sensitive down to microvolt signals and low bandwidth. The noise bridge is an excellent antenna tuning instrument because it gives a rapid and precision measurement and also the noise power induced into the antenna is very small and will not cause interference to others.</blockquote><br />
Basically, is is an even cheaper version of an antenna analyzer and, if mastered, can be quite useful. <br />
There are "commercial" products available like the venerable Palomar Engineers version or an old Heathkit, and an MFJ unit that turn up from time to time on eBay priced from around $20 on up. I would not, however, pay more than $40 for one. These are shown below:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghgRbWZrwHpTToqWHlpPQQkoB-p8QDcRiN52EDtKLY_GFgekUMeKy94sA3prSQgjSJy1ZK7iO1ILbNr5yW3JX7qEqCJksxW4U3Y49a6wtiliV1Jqe94MPY0h5-tojB1WoOfTOlNovniec/s1600/HeathkitHD-1422+noise+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghgRbWZrwHpTToqWHlpPQQkoB-p8QDcRiN52EDtKLY_GFgekUMeKy94sA3prSQgjSJy1ZK7iO1ILbNr5yW3JX7qEqCJksxW4U3Y49a6wtiliV1Jqe94MPY0h5-tojB1WoOfTOlNovniec/s640/HeathkitHD-1422+noise+bridge.jpg" width="640" height="490" data-original-width="687" data-original-height="526" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVNr3SxpVChTuseMtCjyeRQx1b0fE_TnNakhKlWE04snO58-5JiHEq98EGSuzhHJWNNEk5DzS2792d3ZGTpszLcl5Op0mGRE977De0fWD7oyRGF2chc4HPZJO_Yhn3x9W7HQyIbDV7fns/s1600/MFJ-202B+noise+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVNr3SxpVChTuseMtCjyeRQx1b0fE_TnNakhKlWE04snO58-5JiHEq98EGSuzhHJWNNEk5DzS2792d3ZGTpszLcl5Op0mGRE977De0fWD7oyRGF2chc4HPZJO_Yhn3x9W7HQyIbDV7fns/s640/MFJ-202B+noise+bridge.jpg" width="640" height="391" data-original-width="906" data-original-height="554" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9gb0q9NaTyfje9J1pIaJfyxa7Z4gtM1RwzZCVDhyl7YfZe049HZaz9tTqeBSvlcoNzzBkwFOlb9wmvxxeR0s_N8_X1h3teZgNHGvtr_IVWKn2VotuwWBQHxIPgaf33vfCmcy0xySIlw/s1600/Palomar+RX-100+noise+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9gb0q9NaTyfje9J1pIaJfyxa7Z4gtM1RwzZCVDhyl7YfZe049HZaz9tTqeBSvlcoNzzBkwFOlb9wmvxxeR0s_N8_X1h3teZgNHGvtr_IVWKn2VotuwWBQHxIPgaf33vfCmcy0xySIlw/s640/Palomar+RX-100+noise+bridge.jpg" width="640" height="366" data-original-width="883" data-original-height="505" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://qrpguys.com/k7qo-noise-bridge"><b>There is a kit available from QRPGuys for about $20 plus shipping.</b></a> It works identically to the units above but the advantage is that you get the experience of building it and <a href="https://qrpguys.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/k7qo_noise_assy_022418.pdf"><b>there is a comprehensive assembly manual here</b></a> and <a href="https://qrpguys.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/noise_guide_120616.pdf"><b>an "operations manual" here</b></a>. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQkIh34yv0gmLpAnXlQl0ylcO-rHidIKMFHVGE7Yhg8pDlmZwEkO3jyZVuRi8M021bNwX_WIuOWHu2UEnKxvCpFp7uRZJqYjxeXBTsArKjqk5VBtxsxsXRbP3qGc2y9W78Lkx5zU93nc/s1600/K7QO+noise+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQkIh34yv0gmLpAnXlQl0ylcO-rHidIKMFHVGE7Yhg8pDlmZwEkO3jyZVuRi8M021bNwX_WIuOWHu2UEnKxvCpFp7uRZJqYjxeXBTsArKjqk5VBtxsxsXRbP3qGc2y9W78Lkx5zU93nc/s640/K7QO+noise+bridge.jpg" width="640" height="500" data-original-width="780" data-original-height="609" /></a></div><br />
Like the GDO above, if you see a noise bridge at a swap meet or ham fest for a reasonable price, pick it up and learn to use it. Anyone can drive one of those idiot-proof antenna analyzers but it takes going old-school to really understand the underlying electronics and antenna theory.<br />
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By the way, Paul Carlson is one of the more impressive techs on YouTube. His lab (a smidge of which is shown in the picture above) is truly expansive and, given that he is prone to radios and equipment built in the 50s and 60s, borders on the Gothic. Don't let this put you off. The man is a genius -- both in the literal sense and as a statement of my admiration for him. His YouTube channel is a treasure trove. Here is the intro. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qqmegXoB7lA" width="640"></iframe></div>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-78685131924667501842019-12-20T21:19:00.003-08:002021-04-24T09:37:29.815-07:00Zuni Practice - Winter Field Day 2020..A small contingent of the The Zuni MEF <a href="https://www.winterfieldday.com/">will be doing Winter FD</a> but not as a contest, rather a one day antenna and rig "burn in".<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNE9G5rKMyUaShUrrQqgKVAoqVyZ35srSLiyU1x70Nud_bRoeW3U0V4478xYcpHG0FBIjYkMcOelAxW3lfRSycgbUwvihcCu7kByrfHIevvEcTfqYwPa6Pr72q3FvVjadpJMTCd1n5hM/s1600/Winter+Field+Day+2020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="429" data-original-width="787" height="349" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNE9G5rKMyUaShUrrQqgKVAoqVyZ35srSLiyU1x70Nud_bRoeW3U0V4478xYcpHG0FBIjYkMcOelAxW3lfRSycgbUwvihcCu7kByrfHIevvEcTfqYwPa6Pr72q3FvVjadpJMTCd1n5hM/s640/Winter+Field+Day+2020.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
As part of that, I will be assembling both a 40m/20m trap dipole as well as a 40m/20m trap vertical and will have pictures and notes on that in this space. <br />
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..see you at the end of January 2020. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZfIR2P5PStI4ZLXxSrnQKjeLuDK4-7sPw1-joZC3JYoXRxQ2b0s3uA5ERnHDu_YW32cGovTxhiA36WTOe-OSchnH9RmE9ssfSc3Ya9m0A04lUEgAnNFK4buPORjbh8lLnQ85aa9uppA/s1600/Winter+FD+-+Mile+Square+Map.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="640" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZfIR2P5PStI4ZLXxSrnQKjeLuDK4-7sPw1-joZC3JYoXRxQ2b0s3uA5ERnHDu_YW32cGovTxhiA36WTOe-OSchnH9RmE9ssfSc3Ya9m0A04lUEgAnNFK4buPORjbh8lLnQ85aa9uppA/s640/Winter+FD+-+Mile+Square+Map.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYqmwiPju7USa93p50fRTlwBQeV8UmB5_c3AKHo9Nz28NuSf833c7Vr5LtlOxVyWFeOOQbytFEPPEBtVT_YXt1_ZY6czceesrbxOysGAqXqBysyiPjh48dywOPdgc-K5sp5ZdBTLVF6E/s1600/Winter+FD+-+Tree+and+Bench.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="360" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYqmwiPju7USa93p50fRTlwBQeV8UmB5_c3AKHo9Nz28NuSf833c7Vr5LtlOxVyWFeOOQbytFEPPEBtVT_YXt1_ZY6czceesrbxOysGAqXqBysyiPjh48dywOPdgc-K5sp5ZdBTLVF6E/s640/Winter+FD+-+Tree+and+Bench.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-11918648597403093612019-12-17T18:14:00.002-08:002019-12-21T10:39:29.331-08:00Simply Half-Wave Trapped Antennas Part 3 - Constructing Traps<u>Constructing Traps</u><br />
It goes without saying that almost anything can be used as a coil form for the inductor in a trap from air to iron. Classic traps in the days of yore was one made out of the Air Dux™ coil stock (shown below) where one sawed off a hunk for the correct inductance.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOuFoufW9Gi1cKk3VKC4Jyen1ctLSCos3fuj4seAtTIwvwkn5JMIV0bRKfWKbQqj5NyG0FqgF5AarfRUAVl7fu8J4XTuegRCIMcJrpec1MpdgkfJ0bZD9rGC503pyGne_u2ZA6ipc3WY/s1600/Air+Dux+coil+stock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1257" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOuFoufW9Gi1cKk3VKC4Jyen1ctLSCos3fuj4seAtTIwvwkn5JMIV0bRKfWKbQqj5NyG0FqgF5AarfRUAVl7fu8J4XTuegRCIMcJrpec1MpdgkfJ0bZD9rGC503pyGne_u2ZA6ipc3WY/s640/Air+Dux+coil+stock.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Of course, wood dowels, PVC, pill or other plastic bottles -- even card board tubes -- can be used. Take, for instance, this trap made out of a toilet paper tube, a hunk of wire, and a couple of 27 pF silver mica capacitors in series. Obviously, it will not stand up to a cat 5 hurricane -- or even a moderate drizzle -- but it can be "hardened" and weather-proofed and/or hidden in an attic where it will serve duty. (I Would not run more than 100 watts through it unless you have your track shoes on and your homeowner's insurance paid up.) <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9n2qv9PSQphBcEZmuaGvTR4tl880K4glb_qUhnbkNS62WrPQBQeceu-zl1HdoxPS4Mzl6PiJrlDX2i_6P_9guw2sNFql3z6Ro1bqUwQW8ADV-IVJpFkycOAVlMS5J6bFCOrLnzmDCqU0/s1600/TP+Trap+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="742" data-original-width="702" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9n2qv9PSQphBcEZmuaGvTR4tl880K4glb_qUhnbkNS62WrPQBQeceu-zl1HdoxPS4Mzl6PiJrlDX2i_6P_9guw2sNFql3z6Ro1bqUwQW8ADV-IVJpFkycOAVlMS5J6bFCOrLnzmDCqU0/s640/TP+Trap+1.jpg" width="605" /></a></div><br />
Also, there's no law that says you have to have a <i>round</i> coil either. A piece of wood with a square profile would work just fine. The take-away here is to use your imagination and see what you have on hand. My preferred material is PVC and generally in 1-inch to 2-inch diameters. The material is rugged, weather-proof, and easy to work with. <br />
<br />
Here are a pair of traps I fashioned with some PVC, a 27 pF silver mica cap, some screws, and solder lugs:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSW71kMbp76CxYIjDSvZSDMZ37an_iml87YVHmTKJnHN9W3sC3A74mnfQisxZr7oTIxOOe6-Wko1HzWzQA1gyt5QwSSq767NGYvq2M-5wLMaeOc9BpVogqqE_QBxgxB65YDKq98YLiu34/s1600/pair+of+20m+traps.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSW71kMbp76CxYIjDSvZSDMZ37an_iml87YVHmTKJnHN9W3sC3A74mnfQisxZr7oTIxOOe6-Wko1HzWzQA1gyt5QwSSq767NGYvq2M-5wLMaeOc9BpVogqqE_QBxgxB65YDKq98YLiu34/s640/pair+of+20m+traps.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>The bottom line on constructing traps is the more perusal and experimentation you do, the better your antenna building kills will become. <a href="http://righthandofzod.blogspot.com/2019/11/trapped-like-rat.htm"><b>I did a post before this series with a bunch of pictures of traps I built for a vertical antenna</b></a>. You are invited to peruse those -- as the rest of the blog if you like. <br />
<br />
<u>Testing Traps</u><br />
Once you build your traps you will need to test them; measure their resonant frequencies. I like to measure each component before I assemble the trap and then measure the resonant frequency of the resulting trap. As you will find out, components are not always dead on with respect to their marked value nor are the coils you wind going to exhibit the calculated inductance. Consequently, the resulting resonant frequency will not be what you calculate either. But not to worry. All you need to do is get things "close enough for government work".<br />
<br />
First, let me digress and recommend you <a href="https://righthandofzod.blogspot.com/2019/12/simply-half-wave-trapped-antennas_20.html"><b>take a quick gander at this as a hint on tools you should be considering if you would like to progress further away from being an appliance operator.</b></a> <br />
<br />
All of that said about the "nice-to-own" tools, here's some notes and comments on ways to measure the resonant frequencies of your traps. First up is a video by yet another ham who does a great series on how-to projects, Peter Parker, VK3YE. It pretty much describes a way to use your radio and a broadband antenna (i.e., a long length of wire) to roughly determine the traps. It is fairly self-explanatory, illustrates a "cheap method" of doing this since you already have your HF radio, and it follows through with how Peter calculated the values necessary to achieve resonance at the desired frequency. Finally, he shows the resulting traps which -- along with my pictures and pictures of other traps on the internet -- should give you soem good ideas how to fabricate yours. <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kuDkdrI4bBc" width="640"></iframe></div><br />
Unfortunately, he flashes by a piece of information from W8KI's website on traps that speaks to the desirability of component traps versus coaxial traps:<br />
<br />
- Trap loss greatly exaggerated by advertising hype<br />
- Traps should not be resonant at the actual planned operating frequency<br />
- Coaxial traps are more lossy than articles conclude<br />
- Coaxial stubs used as capacitors cannot be calculated using pF/foot unless the stub is a very small - fraction of a wavelength long<br />
- Coaxial stubs have a low Q (are relatively lossy) compared to normal lumped components<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.w8ji.com/traps.htm"><b>The actual website is here and it is definitely worth a glance as he develops this theme with calculations.</b></a> The bottom line is that you don't sacrifice anything by building traps with discreet components versus pieces of coax, the busy-body naggers notwithstanding. <br />
<br />
In the link above where I made the recommendations as to the inexpensive test equipment you should avail yourselves of, I mentioned an RX noise bridge. These can be used in conjunction with the receiver on your HF rig to measure the resonant frequency and a good explanation on how to build one as well as use it can be found here. Note that the noise bridge will substitute for Peter's broadband antenna and provide you the antenna radiation resistance as well as the inductive or capacitive reactance. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.radioexperimenter.us/rm-1996-05/antenna-noise-bridge-detector.html"><b>There is a great article on an antenna noise bridge detector here.</b></a><br />
<a href="https://www.radiohobbyist.org/blog/?p=1884"><br />
<b>..and another one here.</b></a><br />
<br />
By this time you should have a couple of traps resonant just below the highest band of your dual-band antenna. (That is, around 13.5 MHz for a 20m/40m antenna.) Next we'll take up building the antenna itself. But rest assured, the toughest part of the job is done. k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-57754037951018540682019-12-17T18:13:00.003-08:002019-12-20T21:53:17.052-08:00Simply Half-Wave Trapped Antennas Part 2 - Calculating Trap Values<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvObsP38UJSEvrXArkzIw5IV9k1OiQR1k4Q4j3sGJrUStldRCcyawSwY_O6CaW0mcD1J-7FI8vbrh07afb758s3btXPB8l_TVA2BSIs6Zt7C1VNeRPxO4QucsP9nX-4yerGXIm32fY9YA/s1600/DSCF3017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvObsP38UJSEvrXArkzIw5IV9k1OiQR1k4Q4j3sGJrUStldRCcyawSwY_O6CaW0mcD1J-7FI8vbrh07afb758s3btXPB8l_TVA2BSIs6Zt7C1VNeRPxO4QucsP9nX-4yerGXIm32fY9YA/s200/DSCF3017.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>Antenna "traps" are nothing more than parallel LC (inductor/capacitor) circuits -- also called "tank" circuits. The derivation of "tank" and "trap" is intuitive once one understands how a parallel resonant circuit works or, more specifically, the nature of LC circuits.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LC_circuit"><b>There is a great discussion of these on Wikipedia</b></a> and other renditions abound all over the internet. <br />
<br />
But, basically, the take away on these is that -- at a circuit's resonant frequency -- the impedance of the series LC circuit is zero and the parallel LC circuit is [almost] infinite. Leaving the series LC circuit, the parallel resonant circuit's high impedance is due to the interaction between the capacitor[s] and inductor[s] in the circuit. I stole this image from the Wikipedia article but it shows this graphically:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kCEBav3D9DNLp7d-CHZlFHFjmL570fju8ImNvy44vt49WQ04axGaDfn38BUS_DkCV-vGKjcFVkX5I4YROBBm1_VDp4eflCP97tzhs1s_6oWAzfUsDYPmaahnFs9sglbs6aJHOEUKJrA/s1600/Tuned_circuit_animation_3_300ms.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="335" data-original-width="408" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kCEBav3D9DNLp7d-CHZlFHFjmL570fju8ImNvy44vt49WQ04axGaDfn38BUS_DkCV-vGKjcFVkX5I4YROBBm1_VDp4eflCP97tzhs1s_6oWAzfUsDYPmaahnFs9sglbs6aJHOEUKJrA/s400/Tuned_circuit_animation_3_300ms.gif" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Again, borrowing from the article, this animated diagram showing the operation of a tuned circuit (LC circuit). The capacitor C stores energy in its electric field E and the inductor L stores energy in its magnetic field B (green). The animation shows the circuit at progressive points in the oscillation. The oscillations are slowed down; in an actual tuned circuit the charge may oscillate back and forth thousands to billions of times per second. <br />
<br />
Gradually without replenishment, this activity will dissipate. However, with an oscillating power source like energy from your transmitter or received at your antenna, the activity will continue uninterrupted by accepting the energy into the "tank" and or "trapping" it and not letting it pass further - hence the high impedance. (I am beginning to skate on thin ice here and suggest you seek hard tech info elsewhere before this erupts into a fount of formulas.)<br />
<br />
The steps to build a trap are as follows:<br />
<br />
(1) Determine the resonant frequency of your trap.<br />
(2) Calculate the capacitance and inductance values.<br />
(3) Calculate the number of turns for your inductor.<br />
(4) Construct the trap.<br />
(5) Measure the resulting resonant frequency.<br />
<br />
We'll cover steps #1 through #3 here and take up #4 and #5 in the subsequent post on building and measuring the traps. <br />
<br />
For the moment, let's assume we're building a 40m/20m trap dipole. (For the sake of this whole series, we are talking about a two-band antenna. I will comment on constructing three or more band trap antennas in the building segment.)<br />
<br />
<b><u>Determine Resonant Frequency of the Trap</u></b><br />
The resonant frequency of the trap should be a shade under the starting frequency of the higher frequency band you are designing, in this case 20m. So we are looking for a trap that is resonant in the range of slightly less than 14 MHz (around 13.5 MHz will be fine) so that it will cut off all frequencies above that frequency and acting like the automatic switch described in the first segment. <br />
<br />
<b><u>Calculate Capacitance and Inductance Values</u></b><br />
This is almost arbitrary; you can obtain the same resonant frequency by selecting one LC combination and achieve the same resonant frequency with another difference set of values. <a href="http://www.pronine.ca/lcf.htm"><b>Avoiding formulas, there's a nice parallel LC calculator to be found here</b></a> -- and below, I have used it to demonstrate different values achieving almost the same resonant frequencies.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNT2HrnICdQwe0vSjj6jaUhv-gjgr2NtdmlBik7kmUj9YOKhil_0jTzA4TaKSNuhDwMAa-fBEEj2oxn5okL2mO9zqfnl-1tEqR08WSpm6nolcpCXVlFm7D-S9d6_gyw4HYpWQxDu50Pw/s1600/LC-14-10+TRAP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="973" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNT2HrnICdQwe0vSjj6jaUhv-gjgr2NtdmlBik7kmUj9YOKhil_0jTzA4TaKSNuhDwMAa-fBEEj2oxn5okL2mO9zqfnl-1tEqR08WSpm6nolcpCXVlFm7D-S9d6_gyw4HYpWQxDu50Pw/s640/LC-14-10+TRAP.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjga6ZgyFJjmdjA87vROGMPa47QLQs662QpyWjIprtstLR_x9VVriT95A6a2teyeIgeYuNAd3AiJV8ND5mY4zvM7AKvi3CtIH9dnMeluVO5O5yOnLa8cjv3U4lARRonKu65pxKEqVIB0/s1600/LC-27-5+TRAP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="974" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjga6ZgyFJjmdjA87vROGMPa47QLQs662QpyWjIprtstLR_x9VVriT95A6a2teyeIgeYuNAd3AiJV8ND5mY4zvM7AKvi3CtIH9dnMeluVO5O5yOnLa8cjv3U4lARRonKu65pxKEqVIB0/s640/LC-27-5+TRAP.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Note that with the selection of two pairs of components -- 27 pF cap and 5 uH inductor or 14 pF cap and 10 uH inductor -- we have achieved traps with approximately the same resonant frequencies and either one would be suitable. Of course, there are other design niceties to be observed in selecting values of components but that is left for your further study. <br />
<br />
Further restrictions are, of course, the availability of the values selected. We can wind inductors (which will be covered below), <a href="http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/capacitor-values.htm"><b>but capacitors come in discreet values.</b></a> You can kluge a desired capacitance value by either connecting two or more in series where, like resistors, you are adding the reciprocal of the values) or parallel where you are just adding the values. <br />
<br />
The voltage handling capacity of inductors and capacitors need to be considered as well. Since traps are at "the end" of the 20m antenna, they will be at a voltage node and that has to be accounted for. If you are working QRP any decent working voltage or gauge of wire should be fine; you can even construct the inductance (coils) from toroids. However, the kilowatt level is another matter so be very careful. (I will probably do a fourth segment on these considerations.) <br />
<br />
Also, I need to pause here and enunciate a prejudice. Research into this subject will show you that hunks of coax can be used to build traps. As you can imagine, coaxial cable has, in effect, capacitance between the shield and center conductor and, as such, can serve both as an inductor or capacitor when wound around a form. The advantage to this that you only need to cut off the appropriate length and build the trap. I chose to keep the components separate so you got a better notion of the LC principles. <br />
<br />
<b><u>Calculate Number of Inductor Turns</u></b><br />
Inductors take many forms: single-winding layer, multiple-winding layers, toroidal, etc. For our traps, we are constructing a single layer inductor; I pilfered these formulas from the 1981 ARRL Handbook:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnv5jBiJx-UyOe24fn6BfGM6qhmn21Kj-pwpgJWIZyW_G1WdPkWvSN_6sze8hHBkeDHnX-ErbFoipxDo_cAEvihtiTDEpknuGt2GOqI_RGW7cb5cEaM0m3YmRTYiRiqWGiuuaEJ0uwCo/s1600/Single-Layer+Inductor+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="501" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnv5jBiJx-UyOe24fn6BfGM6qhmn21Kj-pwpgJWIZyW_G1WdPkWvSN_6sze8hHBkeDHnX-ErbFoipxDo_cAEvihtiTDEpknuGt2GOqI_RGW7cb5cEaM0m3YmRTYiRiqWGiuuaEJ0uwCo/s320/Single-Layer+Inductor+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtv68IjSOEg81Ac5VuWzwFFjYxfF0T77LuWGwpGn1nVUQTBwYwdtwmFnWwLvTA9CQYb4GjtGieVUymNe3OUnRwYGq_E-nfUhJjOhvMIMSJ7YajECVORoVqhlGUWjMvlW0ofK5Ae5xAfJc/s1600/Single-Layer+Inductor+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="549" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtv68IjSOEg81Ac5VuWzwFFjYxfF0T77LuWGwpGn1nVUQTBwYwdtwmFnWwLvTA9CQYb4GjtGieVUymNe3OUnRwYGq_E-nfUhJjOhvMIMSJ7YajECVORoVqhlGUWjMvlW0ofK5Ae5xAfJc/s320/Single-Layer+Inductor+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Of course, you can enter this into your calculator laboriously, build a spreadsheet, <a href="https://www.translatorscafe.com/unit-converter/en-US/calculator/coil-inductance/"><b>or just use one of the internet sites to do this</b></a>:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje24lXYsYwkKnIZTlgxu4YMhALrtVj3nRwfktD83KcODOTjdJYPLEi1xbHt5D6Tx5_Ow7XpJTUX9aPSuO5231j7n3wTldhskjHJmThj-w2Iq6sZoO3Upn3hk6ksQSX8y-4qNucRy8yxbw/s1600/Single+Layer+Coil+Calculator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="1008" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje24lXYsYwkKnIZTlgxu4YMhALrtVj3nRwfktD83KcODOTjdJYPLEi1xbHt5D6Tx5_Ow7XpJTUX9aPSuO5231j7n3wTldhskjHJmThj-w2Iq6sZoO3Upn3hk6ksQSX8y-4qNucRy8yxbw/s640/Single+Layer+Coil+Calculator.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>This covers the first the first three of our five above steps and, since this is somewhat long, we'll leave the rest for the third segment on actually building the traps, measuring the resonant frequency, and building the antenna.k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-14681954844917002702019-12-15T10:58:00.001-08:002019-12-20T15:16:16.368-08:00Simply Half-Wave Trapped Antennas Part 1 - The BasicsI was asked by a fellow ham to make a "how to" tutorial available on trap dipoles. A Power Point summary was suggested but I prefer to do a fuller, more complete explanation and, to that end, I am creating some posts on my blog. It is loosely aimed at the following objectives:<br />
<br />
(1) Understanding the principles behind a trap dipole antenna without the concomitant EE degree math. <br />
<br />
(2) Fabricating a trap antenna for the constructionally impaired from [mostly] ordinary "household" items. <br />
<br />
I will probably break this up into four posts on the blog -- this one on the basics, a subsequent one on trap theory and calculations, a third on building traps, and a final one on putting the whole antenna together. <br />
<br />
<i>So let's charge right into it, shall we?<br />
</i><br />
A trap [half-wave] dipole antenna is a device that will be resonant on two or more bands by means of one or more pairs of parallel resonant LC "tank circuits". Such a circuit is an inductance and a capacitance hooked together in parallel that exhibits the property of presenting an infinite -- or almost infinite impedance -- at its resonant frequencies. <br />
<br />
But let's back up a minute and refresh our memories of dipole antennas. Sparing you the 1,000 words, here's a picture:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Nz6LfiwtFH-sIDqweQJj2HRRzbnpVZ65MOOWyZdNpq1OVbkrX5X-EkCmcOHF1Mbd1ssOoihbBYS6q3wCsnMOtspc4b9Qf-Rr1rf11t2VHHgJtMr7BGfppTR5HH5GUXJKEHr-f0g182A/s1600/half-wave+dipole+antenna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="732" height="367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Nz6LfiwtFH-sIDqweQJj2HRRzbnpVZ65MOOWyZdNpq1OVbkrX5X-EkCmcOHF1Mbd1ssOoihbBYS6q3wCsnMOtspc4b9Qf-Rr1rf11t2VHHgJtMr7BGfppTR5HH5GUXJKEHr-f0g182A/s640/half-wave+dipole+antenna.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
If you need a refresher on the derivation of the half-wave antenna formula, <a href="http://www.antenna-theory.com/antennas/halfwave.php"><b>you can go here</b></a> which I heartily recommend doing as it even has a video explanation of dipole antennas. Also, you will see that these antennas are fed with 72-ohm coaxial cable in the literature but, fret not, your 50-ohm coax will be fine for the moment. (But, down the road, you will come to realize that the RF loss of even the best coax is a mega-bummer if you like QRP.) <br />
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So, for the sake of argument, we would like to have a half-wave dipole for 40 meters. Hence:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvunbQu5AJh3yslDWEqbLX07JVIZVKV3WE_0AXbkeSpYa3ur7tOJ3wVG5ew4qIzaxZzIVeBRXLLqRdzRmu0j_RYWB27wLP1NBRUai4u7Go2sFuas6vkeV-wQzzgoqMPFOuR3LNiVwbO8/s1600/half-wave+dipole+for+40m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="757" data-original-width="1170" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvunbQu5AJh3yslDWEqbLX07JVIZVKV3WE_0AXbkeSpYa3ur7tOJ3wVG5ew4qIzaxZzIVeBRXLLqRdzRmu0j_RYWB27wLP1NBRUai4u7Go2sFuas6vkeV-wQzzgoqMPFOuR3LNiVwbO8/s640/half-wave+dipole+for+40m.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Also, we wish to have a half-wave dipole for 20 meters. similarly:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqnrr1xV-Kc0_JQS0AQcQ7UXkQQCRzHmxVBJh5b2Lu2Ts6m-EbaBDaBCXpSHC0-a6ujMU1eWlxcUC7BrsC98Fd1L5eIh69HzWK97XS3mSgiiVJwpLkJe5NyWQSEIYmQsAuqamy4GNap0/s1600/half-wave+dipole+for+20m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1177" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqnrr1xV-Kc0_JQS0AQcQ7UXkQQCRzHmxVBJh5b2Lu2Ts6m-EbaBDaBCXpSHC0-a6ujMU1eWlxcUC7BrsC98Fd1L5eIh69HzWK97XS3mSgiiVJwpLkJe5NyWQSEIYmQsAuqamy4GNap0/s640/half-wave+dipole+for+20m.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
And, while half-wave dipole antenna calculators abound on the internet, <a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/antenna_calculator.php"><b>the above was derived from a site put up by West Mountain Radio</b></a> who also went ahead and published the computations for all of the amateur HF bands, below.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHPI48Ge92Ks3nVngiT7eUShDLUEaO3227BCBbugw4swW83a4eeTfPYhH1D-xfAtoDEFSUc1-Tf4hhEF9BENL_3t5t3XxtzWUqqNw2p_dfqp4Iyt2thqH5QP48AL6XvPhwwwmmaXZJhE/s1600/half-wave+dipole+for+all++bands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="784" height="629" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHPI48Ge92Ks3nVngiT7eUShDLUEaO3227BCBbugw4swW83a4eeTfPYhH1D-xfAtoDEFSUc1-Tf4hhEF9BENL_3t5t3XxtzWUqqNw2p_dfqp4Iyt2thqH5QP48AL6XvPhwwwmmaXZJhE/s640/half-wave+dipole+for+all++bands.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
So, armed with these, see that a 40 meter antenna is roughly twice as long as a 20 meter antenna and that we could probably use one antenna on both bands or actually terminate our coax into an antenna with BOTH 40m and 20m elements. And, while there is nothing wrong with either solution, there are drawbacks to each approach. (There are, in fact, problems with trap dipole antennas as well. <i>Hey, nobody's perfect!</i>)<br />
<br />
Using the 20m band on both 20m and 40m will cause mismatch problems and compromise the efficiency of the 40m operation a great deal. Conversely, using a 40m antenna on 20m does not work out so well on 20m as it isn't a resonant match on that band. Still in all, it works far better than using the 20m antenna for 40m. <br />
<br />
But I prattle. <br />
<br />
The other alternative -- feeding a 20m and 40m dipole form one coax -- is called a "fan dipole" (for obvious reasons) and actually is <i>better</i> than a trap dipole but may have resonance or deployment problems. For example the multi-band fan dipole shown below is a stone bitch to deploy and tune without getting all of the bands set up so they don't "de-tune" adjacent bands. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSkgdiTE9w6L12bs7-zjsgewUW6rqK7XP1nFAZt8ReCJZkddeQw1EAypsn9xXgcZNJaRdJY4EZZrn6MKos-U14yp0VS3AYEl4qvDuYk44KcX5PFISc4RnxTxy3meUvZnFJMqfS79j4ViM/s1600/Multi-Band+Fan+Dipole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSkgdiTE9w6L12bs7-zjsgewUW6rqK7XP1nFAZt8ReCJZkddeQw1EAypsn9xXgcZNJaRdJY4EZZrn6MKos-U14yp0VS3AYEl4qvDuYk44KcX5PFISc4RnxTxy3meUvZnFJMqfS79j4ViM/s640/Multi-Band+Fan+Dipole.jpg" width="640" height="307" data-original-width="1347" data-original-height="647" /></a></div><br />
In fact, I live in "CC&R hell" and cannot have the tri-band Yagi on the 70 foot tower we all lust after so a fan dipole in the attic had to do. Fortunately, I was able to lay it out so 40m, 30m, 20m, and 10m played nicely off of one coax but some re-arrangement was necessary. However, in the sense that one coax line and one run of wire can be deployed meets our needs most easily, then the question arises as to how this can be accomplished.<br />
<br />
We could, of course, put up a run of 66 feet -- 33 feet on a side -- and put a switch in the middle of each side. When we wanted to work 20m, we'd just disconnect the extra 16 feet by opening the switch and Bob's your uncle, as the Brits say. Of course, this would become a monumental pain in the ass getting out the ladder or crawling up in the attic each time we wanted to change bands.<br />
<br />
So what could we do? What if we had a magic device that would shut off the extra 16 feet when we worked 20m but did not when we worked 40m? <br />
<br />
This is where traps come in. <br />
<br />
It is a characteristic of a parallel LC circuit that, at resonance, impedance is almost infinite. Not to go into the hairy math in this discussion <a href="https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/chpt-6/parallel-tank-circuit-resonance/"><b>(it is discussed here)</b></a>, we can see that this is as good as the switch we wished to employ.<br />
<br />
For example, if we configured our antenna as shown in the picture below, we would have the single run radiating element we desired and, when we transmitted on 20m the parallel resonant traps would offer an [almost] infinite impedance and the antenna would appear to be electrically resonant on 20m. Of course, the traps would not be resonant and the entire antenna length would eb employed and, hence, resonant on 40m. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0l0PTVcEF48IpjZe39VSWdPkHoDgRVIbIPu3s_S45yPZWipnQBvawNAlf4mB4YGNIk3RYtWodPtuPYXtm1c46V5QWISk-KM4kKzmS8X9ggEzxYgwtvhonXBs6VgIpfFHtuDNcVa3YAg/s1600/AA7EE+40-20+trap+dipole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="1010" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0l0PTVcEF48IpjZe39VSWdPkHoDgRVIbIPu3s_S45yPZWipnQBvawNAlf4mB4YGNIk3RYtWodPtuPYXtm1c46V5QWISk-KM4kKzmS8X9ggEzxYgwtvhonXBs6VgIpfFHtuDNcVa3YAg/s640/AA7EE+40-20+trap+dipole.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>(Courtesy of AA7EE)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
There's an added benefit to this as well. The inductor in the traps serve ot electrically add to the length of the antenna so therefore the overall length required for 40m is reduced by about 65 percent.<br />
<br />
"Great", you say, "When do we start?"<br />
<br />
Well, that's for the next post on building traps.k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-16342805698846078392019-11-05T16:06:00.001-08:002019-11-05T16:06:51.049-08:00Trapped like a rat..I recently did some diddling with traps for a trapped vertical I am deriving and wanted to post some pictures for friends to look at. Personally, I prefer the inductor-and-capacitor type of traps over the coax traps because they are neater (as in cleaner) to build. I make no representations regarding better, more efficient, and so on. I just like hacking off pieces of PVC, wrapping the wire, and paralleling it with a mica cap. <br />
<br />
Since I am building a 20m/40m vertical (and may yet add to my growing collections of my 20m/40m dipole antennas), these are built to resonate at around 13.5-14.0 MHz. Unfortunately, the best one (the one with the long-leaded mica cap) resonates at just a pinch under 14.0 MHz so I fear that any antenna made with it will attenuate some part of the 20m signal in the CW band. But, since I am experimenting, I will measure this and see. <br />
<br />
I used some small lugs on hand and note that one way to secure the traps to the antenna wire is to drill a hole in the PVC on opposite side of the bolt and nuts used to secure the wire and cap lugs. The wire can be looped through the hole, crimped with zip tie for strain relief, and soldered to the lug. When there's a chance, I will put up some pictures. <br />
<br />
For the record, the trap capacitance is 27 pF and the inductance is a shade under 5 uH. Your mileage may vary but, what the hell, a decent hunk of wire, a handful of 27 pF caps (surprisingly cheap on eBay) and wire and -- within days -- you can bloviate with the best of those guys who write the QST articles.<br />
<br />
Herewith are the pictures. <br />
<br />
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k6whphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14459579212118994056noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7280340985847172235.post-16298832314583163912019-10-07T12:04:00.000-07:002019-10-07T12:05:47.445-07:00Exercise for the compulsive: Scouting The Winter FD site..The following pics were taken over a Mile Square Park on 7 October 2019. I was looking for a decent site close to parking and with tables and trees capable up supporting an array of antennas for experimentation and Winter FD. Clearly, this represents a more hospitable weather situation that January or February next year. <a href="https://righthandofzod.blogspot.com/2018/01/proposed-winter-field-day-site.html">Look here for my previous survey of Site #1 to see how it looks in the Winter.</a> But, even at that, the site boasts a number of advantages:<br />
<br />
(1) Proximity to K6WHP's QTH with the possibility of packing our gear across the street. (One mile hike.)<br />
(2) We can load gear into one car and enter the park for a modest day fees. ($3 weekdays and $5 Saturdays.) <br />
(3) Parking lots close to the two spots cited.<br />
(4) Great pizza joint close by for apres testing/contesting sessions. <br />
(5) Virtually empty on weekdays. Ditto Winter weekend days.<br />
<br />
Here with are the pics; documentation to follow. <br />
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